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OP question - I have used pellets like these rather than waste a large block for small pot repairs. still needs painting or you could try adding acrylic paint to match?

If eider known this maybe it would not have happened?

Good move LM , the problem was "the angle of your dangle " ..............

Instead of spoiling the beautiful lines of the model I would fit an electric motor! Only kidding, enjoy the build!

I really like to figure stuff out as I go. Makes for a really fun process!

just make sure you dont put the tail in front ernie

Thanks Simon, that's impressive that the dummy engine stays in one piece at 6000 rpm, is it a 3d print? must be well balanced.I particularly like the fact that the dummy engine starts and stops exactly with the propeller motion, unlike some others where the the prop stops but the engine continues rotation.

You canardly use duck tape.

Super-Tigre plugs were long reach plugs, as typically used in a lot of older European engines (think Webra Blackheads, etc.) A short reach plug usually works, but will be recessed from the combustion chamber. This reduces the compression ratio slightly and also removes the plug from where it should ideally be for optimum ignition. You also get carbon build up in the threads if (shudder!) you use castor oil! This can make it difficult to fit the proper plugs if you get some at a later date. Also most of these European engines were designed to run on little or no nitro, unlike their American and Japanese counterparts. This usually requires a hotter plug, so fitting a 4-stroke plug is a win-win situation. A word of warning to others following this thread: Do not fit 4-stroke plugs into an engine without checking clearances! Ideally, remove the head and make sure the plug is not protruding beyond the inside of the cylinder head. At the very least, turn the engine over carefully to make sure it doesn't hit the piston at TDC! I've personally used this trick in Super-Tigres and cross-flow Webras, so I know it works in them! -- Pete

Gotta luv an improv build. I do it lots. 👍

Sorry, this was meant to be posted in the ‘Duck Repairs’ thread.

Thanks ED, being a notorious skinflint, I think I'll go with your first suggestion.

He's a web(bed) leg-end now

Very gusty here in Norfolk today but managed 6 heli flights anyway.

Hi https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/products/2-in-x-2-in-x-1-8-in-aluminium-angle?syclid=5ad44f52-f8cf-49b0-a230-5be4d4fdd6ee&utm_campaign=shipping-confirmation-email&utm_content=product&utm_medium=email&utm_source=OrderlyEmails I bought 4 and had a local metal shop cut them shorter as I wanted them neat, I’m not good with metalwork 😂… guy did it in 5min for free. Result. The shorter offcuts still come in useful. Can be used as in the pic above where the TE doesn’t run all the way out to the tip (embedded flaps) as on a Bob Palmer Thunderbird Mk II CL stunt model i built for a club mate. Will upload chocs when i get a chance. PS. I have had cheap ply warp when cut by knife. Happens when internal stresses in the sheet are relieved. Not very common in ply in my experience but have seen it. Only in Lite ply though.

Who knows whether the designer/test pilot prefers to balance level or nose down, unless it's specified in the notes. However, the difference is tiny in relation to the acceptable range of C of G location. Specified locations are, at best, starting points for tuning to personal taste.

Considering the quality and detail, that's not too bad. I may raid the piggy bank. My bank (Nationwide) has gifted me £200 this year (and my wife, too) so it may be put to good use 🙂

£300 in the UK Geoff.

Getting back to the Skybolt, Had a very good scale modeler in our club who built from plan large [ for the time] Warbirds and aerobatic types. Brian [RIP] was also a very good pilot. He made a petrol powered Skybolt complete with smoke system. Despite flying it a fair bit he said he never realy liked it as it could not be made to be tidy flyer in all aspects unlike his Pitts Special. He thought the issue was with the basic design/set of the model.