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Hi, I have a quarter scale Sopwith pup that's getting some upgrades, it really needed a spruce up of the nose. I also needed to put a baffle around the engine for cooling. I have a three-cylinder Saito radial engine in it, and to mimic the nine cylinders of the original, I had to put two cylinders between each cylinder. The prototype that I'm modeling has a Monosoupape and my idea was to make a look-alike... A quick effort in Fusion 360 paid off: I designed it to fit over the Saito radial. The print turned out really nice, it's high temperature ABS filament. The test fit was good, but it left room for improvements. I will get back when the printer is done printing out the revised version.

Lots of the forms coming in now and the kits getting close to completing . Nice to get the old fashioned post really . Especially those that put a little note on saying about what they liked in my kits and what they were up to generally . I think Ive spoken to pretty much everyone over the years , so its nice to get a bit of an update . Everyone is pretty much peed off with the weather. Lots are dealing with various health issues , either for themselves or their loved ones . Makes me realise how important the escapism of modelling is . Its something we can actually do and achieve results, in contrast to all the things we can't change . I hope you all like the Tempest . I really do , as its so colourful and aggressive to look at but such a softie to fly . Thanks for your kind words chaps .

Byron was busy this weekend, used 2 newspapers, 6 rolls of masking tape and 3 meters masking film resulted in this.

While waiting to get our bags and cases at the airport, my wife collapsed onto the baggage carousel. She came round eventually.

As promised, there are things being done on the Pup. I moved the engine 25 mm to the rear and installed a scale cowling. The wheels were replaced with DuBro wheels. I made scale wheel locks for them. I designed a lookalike Monosoupape dummy that would allow some cooling to the radial engine. A few hours in Fusion 360 gave this: I printed it on my trusty old Wanhao duplicator 4S using HiTemp ABS. When test fitted it looks like this: It left room for improvements, so version 2 is in the printer as I write this. The repaint has also started. I added rib tapes from Toni Clark before spraying on the custom mixed PC 10. It's old Powermax Polykote paints that I mixed using black, beige yellow and blue. I added a dash of olive drab to get it perfect. The first coat turned out too brown, hence the addition of olive drab. Now it's just a matter of finishing it before the end of May. Btw, I changed the prototype... I model this one now:

A long time ago I said to my father, I said I want to be a comedian. He said, practise in the bath. So I did and now I am one. He gave the same advice to my brother, but unfortunately he wanted to be an electrician.

Finally managed to maiden my Sea Stormer, a David Boddington plan from Aviation Modeller International circa 1993. Here it is at the picturesque Loch Earn where I'm spending the weekend enjoying a waterplane event. 69" wingspan, OS91FS, lovely flyer, as you'd expect from a DB design.

My dummy engine version 2.0 that I printed out is now glued on the plywood baffle (which will later be glued to the engine cowling). I've only primed it yet, but with some aluminum paint and detailing it will look better. The cooling of the engine will be so much better as a result.

I live in NC and fly scale planes. I build from kits and plans or anything that looks interesting. My latest almost ready for the maiden is a 1/4 scale lanier taylorcraft 98" wing.

More like Wales I recon, Gods own country after all.😁

Mike I was like you. But when I got into aerobatics, not only were the electric motors more powerful than the equivalent glows, they were also very reliable and easy to use. Yes, it's a big investment in charging equipment and batteries but it is, IMHO and that of almost all who fly aerobatics in competition, the way to go. It doesn't take too much effort to get your head around this new type of propulsion. It's also a lot cheaper! I calculated that it cost me £2 per flight with my Saito 180 while it was £1 per flight with the equivalent electric setup if I got 100 cycles out of the battery. True, some packs failed at 50 cycles but some went for 200 cycles and are still going strong. There is much more variability in LiPo makes and even within the same make! I absolutely agree with Phil, the Wind will not stand up to being converted to IC. If you really don't want to go electric, why not choose something like the Crescent Bullet or how about this one? Peter

Hoterl Reception.mp4

I drove Reliants from about 1970 onwards. I had my Rialto up to 80 on a straight road. Never frightened myself...unlike motor bikes.My bikes, well one was my show bike that built in the very late 60s

Neat a 6/9th scale Monosoupape.😉 I appreciate there are scale issues but the Mono was not the usual engine in the Pup. I believe it was only used in the Home Defence version where despite its considerable cost its extra power allowed the Pup to more quickly reach the altitude of the Zeppelins and Gotha bombers. Perhaps scale cylinders that match the three IC ones might actually look neater. Just on an excruciating scale point the Mono Pup cowling was quite complex with four "hooded" vents in the cowl front which I believe matched the air inlet period of the single valve. Note also the four external reinforcements. There is a picture of a Pup Mono cowling with 6 reinforcements. Clearly flexing (and fatigue cracking?) of the aluminium "horseshoe" cowling was an issue that was not found in the "full" cowling used on the 80hp Le Rhone. Of course with electric power the ultimate scale feature is possible with the rotary going round with the prop. A much smaller scale Pup The electric motor is the crank case. It even all stays together at full power.

I used to get diluted with IPA, Indian pale ale, it made me runny. Good to see you fixing the problem Toto, there is a lot of satisfaction in being able to repair something rather than depend on sometimes non available spares.

Not sure if this is going to be a bit boring, but i am sure i will need some advice along the way from you! Having built the Hemmingway Sparey 5cc diesel (still unfinished business until it runs) I thought another trickier engine would be the ticket to a few more sleepless nights. Thus I bought a Hemmingway Aton Minor Mk3 box of materials, the large parts/GA drg and the book written by the designer on how to make it. The book is great. It seems he wrote it just for new-comers like me so I'm following his advice as well as watching the You tube episodes of Paul's Garage Projects. I will be using the Drummond round bed lathe and the Myford compound slide but have just invested in my first precision pillar drill, all fresh and new from China for £15.99. I have a new small capacity 240V piston drill that will fit, so all those case screws on the Atom design should be true. I've treated myself too with a real parting off tool and a small angle plate to help making the slightly awkward crank case. As i type this, the main case has been faced to 1" width and looks good, the bore for the cylinder is next which needs the angle plate on the face plate I have. The crank casting only just went into my 3" 4 jaw chuck and was looking very precarious, but with light cuts it was good. If the regular watchers are thinking, "oh no! not again" let me know and I'll reduce the thread to simply cries for help along the way. I WON'T be offended.

Got too spend a few hours on this over the last couple of days Hi

Form & gregory in the post today Richard. Lowers & polishes halo!

yes indeed im using alot of ideas i learnt with the building of the big 12 foot ziroli dakota, many years ago now, so this one will be a slight size drop one. a mini ziroli if you will lol😁

Richard Wills - the light at the end of the tunnel! 👏

A bit like the supermarkets today. The Cambria model is £20 more and they've cut an inch off the span 😀

I have a 5 year old Riot which flies on a 3S 3000 on the original motor and a 12x6 prop it has perfectly adequate performance for a poor weather hack. I later replaced the motor for a more powerful one and it will climb vertically. The original set up drew 28 Amps at WOT, the uprated setup draws 38 amps. If you want to run on 4S you may need to drop the prop size a touch. I am not sure what current the original motor is rated for. You may have trouble fitting a 4S battery into the battery compartment, I've cut the bottom out of the battery compartment in mine to make it fit a wider range of batteries.

I thought that was Yorkshire 😀!

Thank you for that suggestion Tim, I'll try it out.

Ive sent a join request,, in meantime can u post a screen shot of the ad please john

Im not a member of that group so i wont see it

Seen as progression. ..... hey ..... you may even get someone asking for advice ..... now ..... there's a scary thought.... the blind leading the blind. Toto

I converted mine to IC using a YS70FZ, I did need to cut the motor box in half and remove approx 25mm to allow for the motor length of the YS, This was then reinforced with 1/16 birch plywood, and 1/16 balsa to cover up the holes in the firewall, No issues what so ever, Fit a good 0.50 size two stroke and it will be good but not a DLE 20. Jason

Just found the stuff I use. It's here.

I think Petrol power will shake that air frame to pieces, it just wasn't designed for it and certainly wasn't made for it, take a careful look at just how much glue they don't use in the construction. I would think getting the C of G right would also likely be an almost impossible problem.

Yes, as been stated before, the Apple, a one bite computer that instantly crashed.

Very nice!

Hi started fuselage. 1 side at a time. Peel Ply, 0,5oz glass and West Systems laminating resin. lol, £1.80 Resin and about £1.20 glass per side. Peel Ply takes more resin than finally needed as i like to totally wet out the PeelPly. Heat Gun helps the resin flow. Mike

Out of the two I would use POR. However my first choice would be Gorilla Glue Brown.

Did Primrose valley one year, had assistance & some training from the Ghost Squadron guys, John & one of the others. Did Brean Sands one year and flew off the beach. With Primrose we had our touring caravan there, but at Brean Sands we used a chalet which was really grim, dirty, poorly maintained you name it. Side story is on the way back from Brean we saved a guys life. We had a big box trailer on my Granada Estate to give more room. We're ambling along in lane 1 of the M4. Suddenly I spot a guy collapsed by an emergency phone. The phone was out of order, so we phoned 999 on my shiny new mobile. Put a coat over the guy as he was very poorly. Paramedics & plod were there pretty quick. It turned out he was diabetic & felt a hypo starting, so stopped near an emergency phone & then collapsed . The phone was out of order. His body temp was very low, it was getting dark, I reckon he'd have been toast if we hadn't seen him. It was only because we were doing 45-50MPH that I spotted him. Any faster I wouldn't have seen him.

IC vehicle depreciation is, and always has been, hugely dependent on the individual vehicle. Even things like paint (solid coloured vehicles depreciate faster then metallic for example) makes a difference. So, like all these numbers it's "lies, damned lies and statistics". And of course journalists never let facts get in the way of a good story. As was said earlier, don't believe what's written, get first hand experience. BYD is Build Your Dreams, And yes, I suspect they get subsidised - like many car makes did (still do) in Europe. @Erfolg Did you grow up in Victorian times ? 😁

The new Dacia Spring is I believe for sale now in uk in basic form for £15k.

No mate. They are hewn by hand, from seasioned oak, by the coach, using worn out sandpaper, only lubricated by his tears of sorrow.

I was taught at school that by the year 2000 cars would run on water, as petrol would have all been sucked out of the planet.

Intake/tank finished, final ops ,make prop spinner, cop screw,thin mounting lugs and drill, clean thoroughly, assemble and then, hopefully, run !🤞

Not mine (yet ) but Saturday also saw the successful maiden flight of my pal Jim's Fiat CR42 Falco. Jim approached me earlier this year and floated the idea that he would design and build a Falco for my Battle of Britain collection, which I'd told him about. Naturally I agreed and Jim based the model on the example in the Battle of Britain hall at the RAF Museum at Hendon. I provided the 3D printed spats, and latterly the pilot, which is yet to be fitted, as my minor contribution, but everything else is Jim's own design- blown up from a 3-view. She's 50" span (~1/8th scale), weighs 5lb 4oz, for a wing loading of 18.8 oz/sq ft, Powered by a D3548 motor, 11x5.5" APC-E prop and a 4s1p 3600mah Lipo . It was an unseasonable calm late autumn day and with the model 99% finished Jim decided the timing was good for a maiden flight. Take off and the first 20 seconds were decidedly hairy, the surfeit of power and highly effective elevator contributing to her being very twitchy in pitch, but Jim soon had her tamed and the maiden went very smoothly, with a peach of a landing. I've attached my pal Derek's pictures of the maiden flight here - the overcast sky wasn't the best and Derek's pictures were so much better than mine. We are both delighted with the model - Jim just has a few finishing touches to make - some blisters, louvres, a few more graphics, windshield and pilot. Then she'll be joining my fleet. It was a lovely surprise and really made my weekend.?

And now I will tell you that it flies beautifully. A little bit of right aileron trim and up elevator trim and it flies like my "The OHmen" but has a much faster roll rate. Unfortunately the ESC stopped working after the first flight. I still had radio but no motor. Sorry the pictures are not too good. There is a dial on top of my camera which is fairly new and it is too easy to move inadvertently.