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Best Heating Option For Your Hobby Shed


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, apologies for the delay in getting a report on the heater, it took some weeks after my previous message on this forum before we actually got the heaters (shipping, customs, bla bla bla).

Anyhow, I am happy to report, that the heater, although arriving a bit battered, was strainghtened out and has done quite a number of hours service without any problems. We have since ordered another for a friend, of which, he too, has found that it provides a great quantity of heat for very little in running costs!

It has been relatively easy to use, does not burn through much fuel and spares (when required) do not appear to cost very much, i will be purchasing over the summer, before the heater will be required again, probably a spare fuel pump and glow plug assembly, just in case either is required upon reinstatement of the heaters!

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Hi Doc. Unfortunately I dont have the room to do this in either my shed or the wifes craft cabin due to where they are fitted but its the reason I did the two videos shown here so people could see what can be done. Although I could not use the heat myself which was annoying I still could not get the bee out of my bonnet so made the two videos and although the bits and bots cost me I am glad to say the first video generated so many comments I had to progress the experiment further and hence here is video two...

I know since I posted the original video on the RCM&E there are a lot more modelers who can now use the heater and build their models up in their workshops over winter and stay warm and toasty- job done.

Anyone want to buy the radiator from video one! Regards to all - I'm done. Peter Bruce.

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  • 4 months later...
Posted by conrad taggart on 23/09/2019 20:18:49:

How is everybody finding these now that we are nearly a year down the line and what was the best source ? Thinking of getting one before the really cold weather sets in. Thanks Conrad

I'm finding mine to be rather dusty.....

Not used much lately for obvious reasons but over winter it was faultless. Running it on Red Diesel and not adjusted anything. I do make sure that it is set to high for a few minutes (as recommended by many people in this thread and others) before I switch it off to burn off any residue.

edit - I bought a combined one with a 5 litre tank built in but found it difficult to re-fuel due to being mounted under a bench. I bought a 10 litre tank and fastened it to the outside of the bench, making it much easier to monitor the fuel level and top it up. In retrospect, it may have been cheaper to buy separate heater / pump / tank / controller.

Edited By Gary Manuel on 23/09/2019 22:01:47

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Are any of these heaters better than the other and is the KW output any different when they are up and running ?

Seen a few videos that suggest they may be different when they fire up but they default to the same rate once they get pass the warming up stage. Reason why I ask is that I can get an 8 kw one for good money but it would be overkill if that is its true output and I would have to turn it down / off all the time which i guess could be a bit of a problem in terms of its operating efficiency / longevity.

Any insight into the above / potential problems greatly appreciated

Conrad

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Mine has been used a bit lately to take off the initial chill and is performing well; just put the second lot of 5l of fuel in. Have left it set at 19 deg. and just let it go through the shut down cycle, I do not increase the temperature so I shall see what happens in the future.

The only drawback I can see is that I shall still need to run an oil filled heater overnight to prevent freezing since I have a lot of paints and other materials of high value in there. The small cost of heating far outweighs the above.

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Dale was it one like this **LINK**

Plus when it got up tot temperature I take it they generally all got back to the same level - burning about .1 litre per hour. The above one states Fuel consumption: 0.1~0.24L but i can't find a range for the 5 KW model. What size space do you heat please and what made you change to a manual control?

Thanks Conrad

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yes mine was just like that. I'm (trying) to heat a large insulated shed that would be about 6m x 6m, but is certainly not airtight so i seem to lose as much air as i heat. (I only run it a 100% power and never get the shed to a comfortable stable temp, and it might have been 2-0° outside) The change to the manual controller was suggested by a colleague who has had a couple of these type units.

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I used to have a 10x12ft wooden shed which was very cold and damp, not nice. I put the shed on a thick layer of foam to insulate it from the concrete base and lined the walls and ceiling with 50mm Cellotex sheets. I used duct tape between the sheets to make it as air tight as possible. It took time, was not cheap and I just used an oil filled radiator for heat but it's effect on the shed temperature was transformational.

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  • 1 month later...

SilencerSllencerHeater InstallationI have just got my shed heater up and running, I didn’t want to mess about filling it up so I mounted it on staging with a four gallon diesel reservoir underneath. I have a submerged 24 volt pump in the reservoir so topping up is a breeze. I made a silencer for it using a redundant stainless vacuum flask. This is very effective, when standing near to it the sound is like a small gas torch. A few yards away an there is no noticeable noise.

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I finally got around to fixing my heater up on a proper stand . I looked for some time for some bent angle sheet similar to the old type Dexion to make a stand but was put off by the cost. I finally found a metal shelving unit on ebay .Using the bits that are like a light weight dexion I made a stand for the heater and car battery and spot welded it permanently together plus another unit for my battery charger . Shelving unit cost £18 and was far cheaper than buying materials seperately. I did have to extend the ehasust pipe but at £6 for a meter length not an issue. Had it on for a few hours already and burnt about haslf a gallon of fuel. Running well and well pleased with unit.

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I've started burning red diesel again since starting a new build and the heater continues to impress. What I like is how quickly the air temperature in my not particularly well insulated double concrete garage increases to a comfortable level for working. Fuel costs are so much lower than my previous electric heating (plus consumption is physically obvious) and there are none of the humidity issues that bottled gas caused when I tried that.

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Posted by Gary Manuel on 10/11/2019 12:44:24:

Interesting silencer you've got there Bert.

I assume that you drilled the holes in the outer layer. What did you do to the inner layer?

I started by drilling right through the bottom with a 14mm drill bit into the space where the tea would be, I then drilled at random a lot of 6mm holes through the outer case as in the photo. I turned an adapter out of a bit of scrap steel bar which I silver brazed in place. Finally I silver brazed a patch onto the bottom of the outer skin over the 14mm hole

The exhaust gases go into the inner chamber then pass into the space between the inner and outer casings and then out through the random holes. It works very well and it’s cheap!

Bert

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Having read the glowing review of these and having not been very impressed with the electic space heater alternatives, I've hit buy on one of the 5kw units and a silencer from an ebay seller, which is promised to be delivered this week.

I'm assuming that I have to arrange for the exhaust to exit the building and don;t really want to drill a 25mm hole through the stone work, but could take it out through the perspex glazed side frame of a door. I thought I'd replace one panel with timber with a neat hole and fill the gap with something fireproof/heat resistant. Any guidance on suitable materials from those who have installed these exhausts through shed walls and the like?

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Posted by leccyflyer on 16/11/2019 17:47:05:

I'm assuming that I have to arrange for the exhaust to exit the building and don;t really want to drill a 25mm hole through the stone work, but could take it out through the perspex glazed side frame of a door. I thought I'd replace one panel with timber with a neat hole and fill the gap with something fireproof/heat resistant. Any guidance on suitable materials from those who have installed these exhausts through shed walls and the like?

The exhaust pipe does get really hot so drilling a hole through the brick would be your best and safest option removing any worry of damage to door frame or possible fire . You can buy extra lengths of exhaust tubing quite cheaply.

A good sealant for any joins or filling in around pipe and brickwork would be car exhaust putty that sets hard when heated.

If I had the room I would run the exhaust through an old radiator that would act as a silencer and give extra heating that would otherwise go to waste .

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