Chris Walby Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Don't remember problems with my tank position and just use an extension on the vent when filling to stop the overflow running down the cowl, but gillyg1's might be inverted. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 Yes Chris, forgot to mention - my engine is inverted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 What a nice looking focke ?. My only concern is lack of strength in F2, some of which will be negated by carbon tows or carbon tissue or may laminate some thin 1mm carbon sheet. Work the weekends so some time to ponder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 (edited) 55 minutes ago, Silver Wolf said: What a nice looking focke ?. My only concern is lack of strength in F2, some of which will be negated by carbon tows or carbon tissue or may laminate some thin 1mm carbon sheet. Work the weekends so some time to ponder. IMO the VQ models fly really well (FW 190 and Aircobra, both Laser 80's) and I would rather poke the engine out one side and have the tank in the right position than mess around with dual tanks, but then again if its only a bit of hacking of F2 its not a major job and worth the effort in the long run to get the engine inverted (not my favorite tuning location, but that's just me!). Mod F2 gets my vote + if it adds weight its the right side of the C of G so won't make much difference in the big scheme of things. Edited February 3, 2022 by Chris Walby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 OK, question for @RICHARD WILLS and @Paul Johnson 4. I have covered my spitfire wings in brown paper for a bit of dingproofness, and I read on the mustang thread that there's no need to apply thinned non-shrinking dope if it's going to be an electric powered model. Thing is, I gently rubbed down the brown paper with some 1200 grit and it's gone a bit "fluffy". I took Paul's advice and didn't dope it before starting on the primer (white on the underside). But it still seems very "fluffy"! Tis only the first thin coat of primer being airbrushed on at the mo, so will more coverage fix it? How do I rescue this? And advice going forward? Will doping sort out the surface such that it can be sanded smooth? Can I apply dope over this thin coat of primer? Or do I just settle for a fluffy spitfire?! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 On 02/02/2022 at 14:48, Silver Wolf said: Thanks for the advice chaps and the photos Jon. Multi tanks would work, although seems to complicate what should be a rather quick & simple model. Proposed tank is "Du-Bro 8oz" height 49mm could go a Slec 6oz which as a height of 47mm. If tank is raised by 10mm this will put centre line of tank 5mm above centre of carb. Had thought about putting some carbon tissue (deluxe materials) or carbon tows on bottom section of new F2. Regards SW I have an 8oz radio active tank in mine and it seems much smaller than the dubro, so that is odd. I can measure the position of my tank if you like? I wouldnt be worried about cutting away the former. Mine has been fine although i think i did add another laminate round the wing dowels. I do not recommend fitting exhaust pressure nipples. Our exhausts are not designed for it and the nipple will eventually fall out. if this happens in flight, the engine will stop. Also, if we needed muffler pressure we would fit a nipple at the factory. Tanks should be inline with the carb and there is no work around if you want reliability. As soon as you deviate from this and start drilling holes in things, you are on your own when it comes to tech support as i can only advise on problems if the engine is installed per the instructions. If its not, all i will tell you to do is install it per the instructions as i cant troubleshoot an unknown setup. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 David, did you sand the paper before painting? Richard said to give it a rub over with an envelope then paint, If you have got the fluff after painting give it a light sanding and another coat of paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 8 hours ago, Eric Robson said: David, did you sand the paper before painting? Richard said to give it a rub over with an envelope then paint, If you have got the fluff after painting give it a light sanding and another coat of paint. Yeah I kinda did give it a light sand before painting. I think I screwed up there. I will do some paint and sand back efforts and see if it sorts it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 Another thing that makes a difference is making sure you put the PVA on the matt side of the paper. I use the car masking paper from Toolstation and as it is in a roll it is easy to tell by the way it is formed. There is not a lot of difference between the two sides visually, (could be my old eyes) so when I cut a piece off I glue the curled up side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 Ditto Eric. I also give a coat of dope mix ,( thinners/ banana oil), once dry. Then a light sand, just prepares the surface for painting.? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Dell Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 With any paper products like this you have to understand the manufacturing process, the finish on this paper that gives it the shine is machine finish which means when going through the mill the final process is a roller running faster than the paper polishing the surface, this seals the fibres to make the surface more moisture proof as much as it can be, abrade this and you are back to fibres, you have to seal the surface first, using the same medium over has the risk of softening the previous coat thus soaking more in, you may find you will need to use more than one or two coats to eliminate the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Wolf Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 Jon If you could measure your tank position then that would be grand but no rush?, can just about achieve centre of tank on carb centre line. Intend to laminate F2, certainly around wing dowels. When using tissue I always give a thinned coat of of dope or sanding sealer. I only sand very very gently if there are any raised fibres. SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 On 04/02/2022 at 16:12, David Hazell 1 said: OK, question for @RICHARD WILLS and @Paul Johnson 4. I have covered my spitfire wings in brown paper for a bit of dingproofness, and I read on the mustang thread that there's no need to apply thinned non-shrinking dope if it's going to be an electric powered model. Thing is, I gently rubbed down the brown paper with some 1200 grit and it's gone a bit "fluffy". I took Paul's advice and didn't dope it before starting on the primer (white on the underside). But it still seems very "fluffy"! Tis only the first thin coat of primer being airbrushed on at the mo, so will more coverage fix it? How do I rescue this? And advice going forward? Will doping sort out the surface such that it can be sanded smooth? Can I apply dope over this thin coat of primer? Or do I just settle for a fluffy spitfire?! Thanks! David , regarding your "fluff" . unlike some of the others . I do give my brown paper a quick brush of 50% thinned (with cellulose) dope . before painting . However I have seen others skip this stage , I would think a fine sand , wipe off and then another coat of paint , will get you get back on the track . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 I am thinking of producing a batch of kits based on previous demand this time of year , A dozen Spitfires (which haven't been available for six months) , plus a few P51s and Hurricanes . The lack of balsa has been a real problem , and in my opinion , I don't think we will be on firm ground for quite some time . Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Still no plans for a J-22 the Richard? Just me again then... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 What's a J-22 Graham ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 17 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said: I am thinking of producing a batch of kits based on previous demand this time of year , A dozen Spitfires (which haven't been available for six months) , plus a few P51s and Hurricanes . The lack of balsa has been a real problem , and in my opinion , I don't think we will be on firm ground for quite some time . Richard Richard, put me down for a Spit !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 1 hour ago, Eric Robson said: What's a J-22 Graham ? A Swedish WW2 Fighter. My first own-designed scale model . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Thanks Graham, short term memory loss. I don't think you will have much luck with Richard on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 On 05/02/2022 at 08:33, David Hazell 1 said: Yeah I kinda did give it a light sand before painting. I think I screwed up there. I will do some paint and sand back efforts and see if it sorts it... David, did you fix the issue as I now have it on the p51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 On 22/02/2022 at 20:55, Jonathan S said: David, did you fix the issue as I now have it on the p51 I've been down with the covid. I'm just about to start trying to tackle it again. I think that I will just have to sand back lightly and do another coat of primer. I'll pass on my results when I've made a bit more progress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 (edited) It's been a while since I looked at my LA-7, been busy building a 98" Sinbad (old timer glider converted to electric). LA-7 Can anyone show how the wings are blended in with the cowl and fuselage. Thanks in advance. Edited June 30, 2022 by Graham R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 These are from my build 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 Thanks Ron. I knew I had seen it somewhere. Thats very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted June 30, 2022 Share Posted June 30, 2022 Just wondering whether I will be able to build up the plastic cowl on the 55" version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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