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YT / ESM Hurricane - Laser 200 in-line twin


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Anyone interested in the surgery etc that will be required to fit a Laser 200 in-line twin into my just acquired fairly well used 82” Hurri? It probably won’t start until next week and, on he face of it, looks like it will be more difficult than the 160 in-line fitting in the Mustang.

 

I won’t be offended if there’s a resounding silence!

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8 hours ago, Jesus Cardin said:

your cooling solution!

Yes, that is the main concern! I’m planning on ducting the hot air out through the belly rad which means taking it through the wing (surgery!!!) which, in turn, means relocating radio gear / servos. But it’s getting the cooling air in that is more of a concern! Jon (Laser) has suggested that the gap between the spinner and fuse (oil spill shroud on full-size) could be sufficient without having to resort to cutting a chin hole. This maybe ok when it’s up in the air but presents a potential overheating problem when in the pits, so I’m thinking of some form of extract fan that can be clipped onto the exit opening which will draw air through and can also be used on the Mustang. I am even toying with the idea of a small fan (or edf) unit in the hot air duct!

 

Any suggestions / ideas will be greatly received.

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18 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

the gap between the spinner and fuse (oil spill shroud on full-size) could be sufficient without having to resort to cutting a chin hole

 

sounds like quite a small inlet - any photos?

 

could you engineer some kind of chin hatch? could be locked closed just before take off?

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40 minutes ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

 

in my dreams ?

 

It would solve a number of problems. 

It would create a lot more, draining the system to remove the wing, leaking hoses, water soaked  balsa, wet electrics, antifreeze for winter flying, ? 

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The gap around the spinner could be really effective and may have a lot more area than you first expect. Getting the spinner small enough and the shape right on the front of the cowl would be critical though. Worst case you'd have to open up a small inlet duct on the underside. The two scale blisters (4 and 8 o'clock positions) could be made a bit larger than scale if needed?

 

Mind you if the air duct outlet in the radiator has enough negative pressure it will cause a lot of airflow even through a narrow spinner / cowl gap.

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1 hour ago, Nigel R said:

if the air duct outlet in the radiator has enough negative pressure it will cause a lot of airflow even through a narrow spinner / cowl gap.

Good point, if I build in the drop flap on the rad too that will give it a slight lip which will increase the neg pressure - thanks @Nigel R

 

I think that I'm still going to need a forced air cooling system for when its in the pits though. My experience of both the 160i in the Mustang and the 200i in the Sportster has made me very wary of any 'standing time' with the engine running.

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6 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

Just Thinking: but could you cut a hole in the bottom of the cowling and make a piece a couple of millimetres larger and fix it five millimetres away on the inside leaving a lot of ventilation space and not noticeable in the air.

Now that's a good idea, a recessed panel with an air gap!

 

Keep the ideas coming in guys!

 

Just had a closer look at the paint finish, it has been weathered and then what looks like a fairly thick fuel proofing coating which has given it a very rough feel, possibly too thick resulting in orange peel. So I've made the first decision which is to rub it back! Now here's a thought, convert it to a tropical version which will give me a nice big under cowl air intake!

 

image.png.e7c7790c6a96f67c80f979e82944f747.png

 

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The picture of the one with the tropical filter looks like the sun has wrinkled the solar film covering on the fairing from the cowl to the filter.

I believe Brian Taylor used a small flap on the underside of his Spitfire cowl which was propped open for running and closed for judging. I have seen mesh used on a cowl to let the air through and  when painted it was not too noticeable.

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Ron, why do not you go the Brian Taylor route with his 70" Hurricane design?

 

He introduced a small hinged lip just below the cowl, so it could be kept gravity closed for real look on the ground and then opened and kept so with a clothes clip or magnet.

 

As far as I know, he used the same fresh air intake for his 69" Spitfires MKI and XIV/XIX as well as for his 70" Hurricane, so you have plenty design plans to check.

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11 hours ago, Eric Robson said:

 

I believe Brian Taylor used a small flap on the underside of his Spitfire cowl which was propped open for running and closed for judging. I have seen mesh used on a cowl to let the air through and  when painted it was not too noticeable.

Like a 'cheat hole' that we used to use on ducted fans, why not with a servo opening it,,,

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