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Force 2t glow engines


Rich Griff
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Anyone on here purchased a new force engine recently please ?

 

In the box, was there an instructions sheet with info about installation and maintenance, carb adjustment and glow plug type, fuel and lubrication as well as running in procedure etc. ?

 

Was the engine quite stiff, very stiff, to turn over before being run in ?

 

How is it now please ?

 

Thanks

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Yes, I've a quite new F46.

 

Yes, very stiff at first.

 

After an ignominious start, it runs nicely, starts easily, throttles well, good power.  A bit more agricultural than the OS equivalent but was under £100 delivered, so that's to be expected.

 

I initially mounted it inverted and struggled to get a reliable idle. So I mounted it upright, ran 4 or 5 tanks through it , making incremental improvements until I liked the way it ran.  Then remounted it inverted, and it's been great ever since.

 

(I'm sure someone with more 2 stroke experience would have had less hassle 🙂)

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59 minutes ago, Rich Griff said:

Anyone on here purchased a new force engine recently please ?

 

In the box, was there an instructions sheet with info about installation and maintenance, carb adjustment and glow plug type, fuel and lubrication as well as running in procedure etc. ?

 

Was the engine quite stiff, very stiff, to turn over before being run in ?

 

How is it now please ?

 

Thanks

 

Please Lord let this thread not develop into a one man campaign to have a manufacturer recall for all Force engines... 

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I presume this is an ABC engine so it will be very tight to turn over at first.

Some so tight that you think it's faulty.🙄

ABC engines don't have rings and rely on the piston / cylinder fit for operation.

The one thing you must not do is run it rich during the run in period as this could damage the engine.

A long read but explains why :-

https://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=99

 

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Thanks gg, much appreciated. Mine only had the parts exploded view sheet.....

 

Did a little research on library computer in town this afternoon and contacted importer about info sheet. Hopefully they will send info sheet by email, so I can follow the running in procedure, use the recommended glow plug and fuel/lub content etc., Info from the horse's mouth as it were.

 

If I don't have the info sheet and run in say using magnum gp40 info, and it breaks a rod and ruines the engine, no warranty claim possible.....

 

What would you guys do ?

 

I have visited the Force web site using this internet phone but internet is crap here. Will visit library again on this wet Friday.

 

GG, if I draw a blank, would you consider scanning your info sheet and emailing it please ?

 

Different engine to yours I know but....

 

Anyway, early days, I will wait for suppliers reply.

 

I have informed the shop but limited feedback from them at the moment.

 

As said, early days...

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Very much appreciated GG, thank you.

 

I will email this file to the shop as they have limited info on these engines even though they sell them.

 

It's a pull start 21 marine engine for a boat I have to be refurbished.

 

I will print it off on my visit to the library Friday.

 

Saw on importers site the glow plug mentioned as a jp no.3.

 

13 rules to obey, 13 eh !

 

Thanks again GG.

 

Gunnar be a lovely morning on the kitchen roof for me 😁.

Edited by Rich Griff
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Gritty environment...

 

Many years ago I purchased a magnum gp40 engine new. The box had a Ripmax sticker as did the challenger RC combo set.

 

Opened box, unwrapped tissue to find the lovely brand new engine, wow, 6 1/2 cc of 1 bhp according to the instruction sheet. Noticed a "gritty" layer which looked like tiny glass beads outside and inside the engine ????

 

Phoned Ripmax and explained what I saw. "Yes, you can strip, clean and reassemble without causing a warranty issue", so I did.

 

About a month later a box arrived via the posty. What's is this I pondered...a brand new engine, gratis !

 

I opened the box and unwrapped the engine to find.....yep, you guest it, glass beads all over it.

 

Anyways the initial engine is still running well, but a bit worn, after having gone thru probably 15 gallons of fuel.

 

The gratis engine is still in its box ( after a strip down and clean etc. ) Unrun. That engine is a bit stiff but nowhere near as stiff as the force engine.

 

I have the instruction sheets and stickers etc. That came with those engines.

 

So for a long engine life, good fuel, a balanced prop, tune say 4 clicks rich ( they lean out a bit in flight don't they ? ) and a proper engine RUNNING IN procedure, according to the INSTRUCTIONS that came with the engine, correct ?

 

After all your not Gunnar set up say a tranis tx with a futaba instruction sheet.

 

Thanks again for the os suggestion and to GG, very much appreciated, sincerely so.

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2 minutes ago, Rich Griff said:

 

 

So for a long engine life, good fuel, a balanced prop, tune say 4 clicks rich ( they lean out a bit in flight don't they ? ) and a proper engine RUNNING IN procedure, according to the INSTRUCTIONS that came with the engine, correct ?

 

In my experience, yes.  The number of clicks will vary...... start with 4 and if that's too many, try 3 etc. etc.

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3 hours ago, EarlyBird said:

image.thumb.png.e8d311b916e481bd32f3c827d4523197.png

 

 

These instructions are a disaster. I would burn them and rid the world of such utter nonsense. It looks like they cut and pasted bits of random instruction sheets from the 1980's and hoped for the best. 

 

For an ABC 46 2 stroke i would start with a 10x6, os8 plug, 5% nitro 15% fully synthetic oil fuel. Start it up a bit rich, certainly not slobbering rich as they say. Within 10 seconds of starting i would have it up to a good half throttle to get it hot as you will destroy an ABC engine if you run it cold when new. 30 seconds or so of warming up at half throttle, full power, tune for about 90% of peak revs (very quick, 5 seconds or less to tune) and throttle back. Run it like this for the rest of the tank with full use of the rev range and short bursts of full power. Let it cool, refuel, switch to 11x6, tune for max power, tune slow run, double check main needle, fly. Dont use full power for longer than 5 seconds and generally just fly a little conservatively. A nice turn around aerobatic routine is perfect for running in an engine so just do that if its appropriate for the model. 

 

As i tell my customers prolonged ground running is not recommended. The ground is covered in dirt, wind blows dirt and your engine sucks that all down its throat. Model engines are also air cooled, and there is more air in the sky. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Rich Griff said:

for a long engine life, good fuel, a balanced prop, tune say 4 clicks rich ( they lean out a bit in flight don't they ? ) and a proper engine RUNNING IN procedure, according to the INSTRUCTIONS that came with the engine, correct ?

 

Good fuel, yep

Balanced prop, yep

4 clicks rich? why? Engines go rich in flight. I think the myth that they go lean is because most models have their fuel tank too high and the engine leans as the level drops. Align the top of the tank with the middle of the carb and you will have no problem always tuning for max power. 

Proper running in, yes, but as i already mentioned i would ignore everything those instructions have to say. 

 

As the other guys have stated ABC engines are tight especially when new. The bore is tapered and expands to correct clearance at running temperature. If your engine is really tight and hard to start use a heat gun to gently warm the cylinder head to somewhere north of 50'c. The engine will run at over 100c so dont be scared, just warm it up and go from there. 

 

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