toto Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Nothing happening today so I decided to visit B and Q for some sheet MDF as part of a building board construction. I sheet 1220mm by 610mm. Cut by B and Q ( free ) to give me two strips 75mm by 1220mm which leaves the main board at 1220mm by 460mm if my mental arithmetic serves me well. The two thinner strips will atc as skids to hold the main board up off the table and allow clamps to clamp on the underside if required. Now ....... all I need to do is source some sheet insulation to top the main MDF working board off with ..... something to take pins. B and Q had material that consisted of a plasterboard type material topped with about 20mm of what looked like dense polystyrene but it came in a huge sheet for £ 21.00. I only require about a quarter of it so I refrained for the moment. I'll see if wickes does something in a more suitable size. An off cut would even do. I'll be gluing and screwing the MDF later tonight in the shed and will post a couple if pictures up as I go. Cheers Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 I would go back to b&q and get some plasterboard, cheap as chips, lays flat, easy to cut to size, you can push pins into it, draw lines on it, etc. Stick the plasterboard to the MDF when it's worn out turn it over, when that's worn out replace it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 Hi Outrunner, I had been looking at insulated plasterboard which had some polystyrene on one side. I thought the polystyrene may self heal to a certain degree. Dont suppose it will matter. They may sell plasterboard at half sheet sizes with a bit of luck. I could even double it up. I think plasterboard comes in 9mm and 12mm thicknesses. The 12mm would be the better. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 +1 for plasterboard 👍 A bit of skip diving before any rain has touched it = free. Run packing tape around the edges to prevent dust/crumbling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learner Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Go to anyone building an extension locally, theres always a lot of plasterboard left overs. You have to pay to dispose of it now so they'll be happy to give you offcuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 If you're going to use MDF as a base for a building board, then screw some 2"x1" (or 50mm x 25mm) strip, edge on the back to keep it flat or it will inevitably bow. After that either use cork tiles (expensive but durable) or plaster board (less durable but cheap to replace) on the top. Or/and use the MDF as a base for 1mm sheet steel and use magnetic blocks to support and position parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 Hi Geoff, As per the original post ..... I had two trips cut, they are 75mm deep and run the full 1220mm length of the board. You'll see them in my photo post later tonight. They should offer good rigidity to the main board and prevent if from distorting. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBaron Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 To put on top of the base board I have found the traditional Sundeala board hard to beat for pins etc. Traditionally used for "Pin boards" I have two building boards both with Sundeala tops in use for 10 years and both still in good shape and not needing replacing Big pieces to be found at Travis Perkins More sizes at Jewsons And some model shops selling convenient sizes Also on Amazon but very expensive there Good luck with the project 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 So .... in the shed ..... and before I get started on my building board construction ....... I may as well do this at the same time ...... bung another of my 3s batteries for the Turbo Timber Evolution on to charge. I only got one of three done the other night ..... two to go. Now ... to the building board .... and here are a few tools of the trade. 50mm countersunk wood screws ... wood glue ..... Clamps, measuring tape and a set square .... battery drill with 2.5mm wood bit ..... a countersink bit.... and some MDF previously cut to size by my freinds at b and Q. mark up the mdf on both sides to show where I will be clamping the strips to ... drill 2.5mm holes at predetermined spots. I did 5 per strip. countersink the holes on the top side as there will be another covering being stuck down on top of this. ..... apply the wood glue along the joining line ..... apply the strips of MDF and clamp to the underside of the building board surface. take away the worst of the " squeeze out ". Turn the board around and screw the board to the strip from the top side. and repeat. The finished article. and from the top. The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that on one of the strip ends ..... the MDF has split. This only happened on the two ends of this one strip as I picked up on it right away and for the second strip, I bored down with my 2.5mm drill bit into the strip itself creating a pilot hole. I should have done this from the outset but thought I'd get away with it. No big deal. and there we have it for now. I will show what I finally get for the final top surface when I get it .... something that will take pins. Whatever it is, it will be cut to size and glued to the MDF top board using contact adhesive of which I should already have plenty. cheers for now toto 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Plasterboard is excellent but it must be dead flat. Thickness doesn't matter. You need to store it vertically and it's easier if it's not attached to wood. Attaching to MDF or wood is more likely to make it bow than keep it flat!. You don't need large bits of plasterboard - several pieces the size of a wing half - say 36 inches by 15 for wings up to 60inch span or less if you build smaller models- then you can build a wing half and move the plasterboard aside whilst glue dries. Plus a couple of separate bits to take a tailplane and a fin. Plasterboard can take screws for holding down wing spars. I use little clips made in one length and sawn apart after drilling. Thickness of the spacer should be slightly less than spar to get a good grip. My photo shows clips and how they are made in a strip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 That will do the job, Toto. What you put on top is up to you - I use either cork tiles or a sheet of 1mm steel but plaster board seems to be popular though I've never tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 Hi Geoff. I just ordered a bit of Sundeala from the Sussex Model Centre. £ 19.50 for 10mm thick stuff. I know its expensive but Sundeala has always been the Rolls Royce in this field. What I did not reckon on ( and I skipped through and hit the button before realising ) was the delivery cost. £ 30.00. I thought that was for the board 1220mm x 600 mm and the delivery ( say £10.00 ) .... No ..... the whole thing cost me £54.00. I tell you ..... this better come in good condition or the thick brown stuff is going to hit the blades. Anyway ..... its done now ..... put it out of my head. toto 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin collins 1 Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 Plasterboard laid on a piece of kitchen work surface on a flat table, used it for years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 Hi Martin it sure would have been more cost effective. I've been looking at alternatives for some time and decided to just bite the bullet. Normally ..... over the years, I have been working on large construction sites as a QS where some appropriate type of material would have been available FOC or ..... if keeping in with the PM .... he would just have ordered me as much as I wanted on his next site order ..... but I've been mostly working from home these days. I'm gutted at the cost but ...... move on. toto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 You've got the best stuff for the job in Sundeala, but it's critical to get it attached to a strudy, dead straight base as soon as possible. This is what a part sheet looks like after just a few weeks of not being fixed down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 As soon as it arrives ...... it's getting glued down. I'm intending to use UHU contact adhesive or similar. I'm not sure whether to weight to it once glued as Sundeaka is a paper based product that may soak up the glue ... through to whatever is holding it down. In saying that .... that may be the case it I was using a water based wood glue but UHU is a thick gunk which should just adhere without soaking in. Toto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBaron Posted September 30, 2023 Share Posted September 30, 2023 The 10mm Sundeala that I use has never warped and is not glued down When it arrives just set it flat on your base board, turn it over every few days until it acclimatises to your ambient conditions of temps and humidity. If you end not being satisfied with that you can always glue it later, but it can't be unglued. In general I prefer not to use irreversible processes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted September 30, 2023 Author Share Posted September 30, 2023 (edited) Hmmmm I have had previous experiences in not gluing down certain materials. Cork for example which I used as a means of sound deadening on model railway baseboards. Maybe sundeala could be different but if it warped like the cork did ... I'd be gutted ... especially at the price. The building board will be kept and used in the shed so will be exposed to changes in temperature. The shed is a twin skin insulated wall construction but it still has significant temperature changes over winter. It is however dry. My intention is to look at replacing it next year all going well. Toto Edited September 30, 2023 by toto 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 @totowhen do you think you'll be using the Timber LiPo? No point in charging it if you're not using it soon...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flight1 Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 hi have you considered a magnetic building board, ive gone this way and it has its advantages over pins in a board. here is a link to an artical that explains it well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 (edited) Ever since Pontious was a Pilate.......I've used MDF sheet kept true with a couple of 2"x1" battens screwed to the underside. Working surface covered with good quality cork tiles that take a pin well. My existing building board has got to be almost forty years old, has only had the cork tiles replaced once in that time and is still dead true. So many ways to achive the same ends. Watched the video on the magnetic building board. Seems all rather OTT. Edited October 1, 2023 by Cuban8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted October 1, 2023 Author Share Posted October 1, 2023 I'll take a look at the magnetic board shortly but I have the stuff in now for the route I have chosen. Cuban8, the cork I tried came on a roll. From memory a 5m 4oll about 1200mm wide. It didn't work well at all but maybe that was down to using PVA under it first time around. ( from memory ... this was a number of years ago ). It was only about 2mm thick as well. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 I think I mentioned it before, plasterboard is the stuff to use, pull it out of a skip or get it from DIY shed, cheap and disposable either way👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 I'll take toto's MDF strips over 2be4 battens anyday (been there, done that - they warped). I've got sundeala on my board, which is tack glued with PVA to the underside of a kitchen surface offcut. If you tack it down, it stays flat, won't shift and is easy to replace. The sundeala is usually covered by a couple of A0 cutting mats which can be got off the tool stalls at shows for about 12 quid apiece (don't buy online, prices are stupid). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stainforth Posted October 1, 2023 Share Posted October 1, 2023 I am completely won over to building on thick plate glass, which is dead flat, as advocated by Dave Platt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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