Diamond Geezer Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 Hi folks how do you folk fix your battery in I.c I have tried most brands of double sided tape to no avail they stick for a while but then become unstuck,any thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 If the pack is to be often removed, I use contact cement to stick velcro on the battery pack and the surface where it's to be mounted. This ensures that the pack will not slide around. And then use a velcro strap or straps to secure it in place (depending on the size of the pack). If the pack does not need to be removed frequently instead of velcro starps I use zip ties. In case of removal the zip ties are snipped and replaced when reinstalling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john davidson 1 Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 You want the flight pack to be quickly removed and replaced so a magnetic hatch with the battery restrained , some times in two axes by velcro, grippier the better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 That’s certainly the case for electric power but a receiver pack rarely needs removing. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 Don't have any IC models these days, but when I did the battery pack - NiCds or NiMhs were permanently installed - wrapped in dense foam and secured with cable ties. They were charged in situ and only removed if that was required following occaisional maintenance inspections. If I were using Li-Ions, LiFEs or Lipos and a voltage regulator or old brushed ESCs I would install them as per my electric models. A small patch of velcro, secured to the airframe and the battery by UhuPor, used as a contact cement and a velcro strap, securely around the battery. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Geezer Posted October 17, 2023 Author Share Posted October 17, 2023 Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 For NiMhs, I use the same method as @leccyflyer, and charge them in situ. My LiFe/LiPos are removed for charging and are wrapped in foam before being wedged in suitable places/purpose built places, or secured with velcro. Nothing electronic gets attached to an ic plane without some form of vibration protection. Apart from an on/off switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 I gave up on velcro as sometimes it was a real struggle to get the battery out. I now use a non-slip rubber pad and strap the pack down with velcro straps over to hold the pack down onto the battery tray. None of my packs has come loose despite flying snap rolls every flight - I'm talking about 2 x 5S 5000 packs so weighing 1.2 kg. It makes removing the pack sooo simple. Undo the velcro straps, unplug the connectors and lift out the pack. Never going back to velcro to hold batteries to the tray. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 20 minutes ago, GrumpyGnome said: For NiMhs, I use the same method as @leccyflyer, and charge them in situ. My LiFe/LiPos are removed for charging and are wrapped in foam before being wedged in suitable places/purpose built places, or secured with velcro. Nothing electronic gets attached to an ic plane without some form of vibration protection. Apart from an on/off switch. On/off switch always soft mounted internally on all my models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 All RX battery packs are always removed (except one bought model that has them (NiMh) fitted under the canopy!) and charged out of model. I also use the RX packs for electric flight so give them a good workout, so if the performance deteriorates I find out at an early stage. Don't like switches so avoid them and fly glow so don't need an ignition battery. Keep it simple, plug it in, fly and unplug it ready for next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 Software swiches, Powerbox Digiswitch V2, are not mechanical and can regulate a 2S LiPo to give 6v 7.0 v, 7.6 v or the full voltage. They are immune to ic engine vibration. Can be used for LiFe, LiIon and NiMH. I see Nexus are selling them for a discounted price of £45. They last a long time!! - https://www.nexusmodels.co.uk/digiswitch-v2-electronic-switch-regulated-output-powerbox-6430.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4bipBhCyARIsAFsieCxRNHPZYty0KKJYV43ZCu0ctz3Edl8EkOY23ybKsOolelWb0cDMBakaAp0ZEALw_wcB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 A task for the gales - soft mount my switches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 Just to clarify - if you use LiPo packs (with suitable regulation) you must remove them to charge them but NiMH packs can be left in situ and located wherever is best for C of G considerations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Jenkins Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 LiFePO4s can be charged insitu though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 Like Peter I no longer use Velcro to hold batteries on place, drawer liner is stuck on the battery tray and a Velcro strap or re-usable zip tie to hold in place. I don’t wrap my batteries in foam, the drawer liner provides adequate vibration damping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 I use double-sided foam tape, and a plastic strap, a big mistake that cost me my Skyraider and most of my Saito FA-100, one of the metal strips that are soldered between the battery elements broke between 2 elements. and in went my plane,,, It had a lot of vibrating engines in it, Irvine .61 Rcgf 15cc petrol ( a plane and radio killer ) and lastly a Saito Fa-100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 Ah that explains it, I mostly fly IC with Lasers providing the oomph. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 12 hours ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said: Just to clarify - if you use LiPo packs (with suitable regulation) you must remove them to charge them but NiMH packs can be left in situ and located wherever is best for C of G considerations. Whilst I agree and that is what I adopt I have first hand witnessed a NiMh explosion. Many years ago (pre-LiPo days) a Club Member was topping up the charge in his NiMh Rx battery in his trainer, in the pits, using a charger off his 12v battery. Some minutes later there was a large bang & the battery blasted through the side of the model with the remains ending up about 10ft from the model, fortunately all in the clear. I'm not suggesting anyone changes their processes from this freak occurrence, and no doubt there was a fault in the charger/battery/setting, but it goes to show that even the seemingly most benign energy store is not without some risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 @Ron Graydrawer liner as in the thick paper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Collinson Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 No, poundshop sticky ribbed rubber. Very useful stuff. BTC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 Ta. No Poundland near me but there are a bunch of similar outlets so I'll have a look as I'm running out of my thin rubber sheet................. have loads of other foam types Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 Like this 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 Nice thing about that is I guess that you don;t have to glue it to the airframe, it stays in place and the tension on the velcro straps, plus friction, holds it all in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 18, 2023 Share Posted October 18, 2023 I do stick mine down, usually with a couple of blobs of hot glue. It just stops them falling into the fuse! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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