B&Q cyano

[David Holland 2]

Anybody else tried the cyano sold by B@Q? Branded Volden Mitre Kit, about a 100g of medium viscosity cyano and 200g of activator for £7.50. Seems excellent.

 

David

[Andy Stephenson]

Tool Station cyno is also good and cheap, it's only a pity they don't do thin cyno.

[Jon H]

yep, i have the thick and the thin. no complaints beyond the bottle cap getting glued on after a while. 

[EvilC57]

2 hours ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

yep, i have the thick and the thin. no complaints beyond the bottle cap getting glued on after a while. 

Has anyone ever come up with a way of preventing this?

[2.4g Shaun]

12 minutes ago, EvilC57 said:

Has anyone ever come up with a way of preventing this?

Yup, wipe the bottle  top before shoving the cap back on. No glue, no stick. 😉

[Jon H]

not always easy when you are trying to juggle parts. You also risk gluing your rag to the bottle! 

[2.4g Shaun]

8 minutes ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

not always easy when you are trying to juggle parts. You also risk gluing your rag to the bottle! 

Never had that happen personally.

Actually one of the best ways is to use the PTFE thin dispenser nozzles and put a pin in the end between use  to keep moisture out which causes the cyano to cure. 

[Robert Cracknell]

I put a thin smear of Vaseline (other petroleum jelly products are available!) on the main thread when new. So far none have stuck.

[EvilC57]

20 minutes ago, 2.4g Shaun said:

Yup, wipe the bottle  top before shoving the cap back on. No glue, no stick. 😉

Yes, done all that. Doesn’t work for me as I find it’s not so much the threads that stick, it’s the very end of the tip that gets stuck up inside the end of the cap. I’ve thought about Vaseline (as Robert C says above), but never got around to trying it.

[2.4g Shaun]

There are a number of widgets available intended for high usage commercial markets that are cheap to solve this issue. But I use these. Also allow accurate gluing and no waste. 

Edited November 15, 2023 by 2.4g Shaun
Typo

[Jon H]

in the case of the bnq bottles they are so large, and we use such small amounts of glue that they last a long old while. As a result they eventually get gummed up and there is little that can be done. I just leave the caps off now and forget about it. 

[Engine Doctor]

As jon says leave tops off but use pippette tips and change when clogged as per Shaun2.4 post

Edited November 15, 2023 by Engine Doctor

[RottenRow]

I use Screwfix cyano, and as that is part of the same company as B&Q it’s probably the same stuff. Quite a large bottle for not much money.

 

They also do the mitre fix with the large can of activator.

 

I try to keep cyano in the fridge when not using it, which gives it a longer shelf life.

 

Putting a piece of polythene, cut from a bag, over the nozzle before replacing the cap prevents the cap getting glued on. The polythene does need to be replaced regularly (just use a new section of the same bit).

 

Brian.

[2.4g Shaun]

Remember moisture causes cyano to cure. If keeping it in the fridge make sure it's lid is on tight. 

[EvilC57]

3 hours ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

in the case of the bnq bottles they are so large, and we use such small amounts of glue that they last a long old while. As a result they eventually get gummed up and there is little that can be done. I just leave the caps off now and forget about it. 

Thats why I tend to buy the smaller 20g bottles, rather than the 50g ones which go off before I can get near finishing the contents.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I used to enjoy using reassuringly expensive thin Zap but since trying the thin cyano from Poundland I’ve found it just as good and saved a lot of money. 

[Geoff S]

3 minutes ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

I used to enjoy using reassuringly expensive thin Zap but since trying the thin cyano from Poundland I’ve found it just as good and saved a lot of money. 

 

Unfortunately Poundland seem to have stopped stocking cyano in reasonable sized bottles. I found it excellent and bought it in quantity. I stored the stock in the fridge.  Now I'm on my second 50g bottle of the Volden B&Q cyano and it seems fine. It's labelled a 'Liquid' rather than 'Thin' or 'Medium'.  It seems to keep OK.

[2.4g Shaun]

For  general modelling use, inexpensive cyano is usually fine. There are a few truly dire ones around that seem reluctant  to cure but  the main difference between cheap and expensive brands is the purity of the glue. Cheaper ones have more filler in the blend and will go off quicker and tend to have less bond strength. I've used Screwfix cyano for years on models up to 1/3rd scale with 100% reliability.

Cyano was never a problem for me; when I was much younger I worked in sales  for Loctite and they used to fill up our car boots with samples of all their products.😉 

[2.4g Shaun]

Just to add, when I said  "go off quicker",  I was referring to the shelf life of the product, not how quickly it will bond your fingers to the balsa. 😁

[EvilC57]

6 hours ago, 2.4g Shaun said:

Just to add, when I said  "go off quicker",  I was referring to the shelf life of the product, not how quickly it will bond your fingers to the balsa. 😁

I’ve wondered sometimes whether thin cyano should be classed as a chemical weapon. Given its tendency to run around and stick your fingers to the model - or each other (as has happened to me on several occasions!).

[Jon H]

10 hours ago, Geoff S said:

Unfortunately Poundland seem to have stopped stocking cyano in reasonable sized bottles

 

Agreed. I used those packs that had 3 little bottles with fine tips but they no longer seem to do them 😞 

[Ariel]

I bought these from Amazon uk and they work really well. You can nip the set glue off with a scalpel to open the tube up again. I guess you could think of them as self sealing. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Micro-Tips-Precision-Applicator-Dispensing-Dispensers/dp/B086SSLKYH/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1VOL20EL7LJ0W&keywords=glue+micro+tips&qid=1700125535&sprefix=glue+mic%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-10

[Eric Robson]

Bought this at a general store in town, it is very good, runs freely along the joint. The Gorilla super glue which is about 4 times the cost is terrible for gelling and not flowing, and that is not the gel. I had to look twice to see if I had bought the gel. It was on offer at Tesco but only 15 g

Edited November 16, 2023 by Eric Robson

[Geoff S]

4 hours ago, EvilC57 said:

I’ve wondered sometimes whether thin cyano should be classed as a chemical weapon. Given its tendency to run around and stick your fingers to the model - or each other (as has happened to me on several occasions!).

 

Indeed. I think I've probably been stuck to every model I've ever used any CA on, anywhere, ever!  Why does it work so much quicker and better on skin than balsa?  I first came across cyano acrylate adhesive when I worked at RR when, as Eastman 910, it was used to secure strain gauges for rig/engine tests.  I think it was very expensive at the time.  I have used it to repair my skin after one of the seemingly inevitable scalpel accidents which shed the required blood sacrifice which all models need before they can successfully fly.

 

I use it more sparingly now but it's a useful adhesive to have available. 

[Cuban8]

I don't know whether it's an urban myth, but I recall being told that cyano adhesives were used, or indeed developed, for emergency wound treatment of US troops in the Vietnam War.

I'm sure Prof. Google has the answer somewhere.