PatMc Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 14 minutes ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said: It’s not uncommon (actually it’s the norm) for motor shafts to be interference fits. It may be a bit late but confirmation from the supplier might have allowed the simpler and cheaper option. I would never advocate hammering a shaft though - a press would be the better option but you can often use a vice and suitable spacers/supports such as sockets or old bearings etc. I've used a vertical drill as a press on motor shafts. The shaft in Toto' motor has a flat cut out on the protruding end that will line up with the grub screw in the spacer at that end of the shaft. There will be a similarly spaced flat at the other end of the shaft that will line up with the grub screw at that end. i.e. there will be 4 cut out flats on the shaft to allow the shaft to be reversed by pushing it to it's new position then secured by the grub screws without needing to completely remove the shaft & turn it around. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 Personally, I prefer the adapters. No faffing about with grub screws and shafts, and the thicker prop shaft gives a little extra protection from a bent shaft caused by an 'arrival'. Always lots of alternatives, and opinions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 As PatMc says. Undo grub screws, (carefully) push shaft through, tighten grub screws, job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 41 minutes ago, Nigel R said: As PatMc says. Undo grub screws, (carefully) push shaft through, tighten grub screws, job done. Often it's not so easy as the rubbish grub screws have been over tightened the the heads rounded off,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 20 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: Often it's not so easy as the rubbish grub screws have been over tightened the the heads rounded off,,, There is nothing lost in trying. If the grubb screws can be moved but the shaft won't budge when using a press of some sort then I would not resort to using a hammer as the shock could loosen one or more of the magnets. At that point I'd get an adapter, though I've never had to so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted November 17, 2023 Author Share Posted November 17, 2023 Thanks guys, The grub screws do come out but when applying a little force on the end of the shaft ...... it is rock solid so I've just tightened the grub screws back up and now await the adaptor. Toto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 Toto It is quite common to have what is called a front mounted motor like you have although many planes place the bulkhead assuming a rear mounted motor will be used. It is just something you have to be aware of when you order a motor. From a purely technical point aspect a front or "nose" mounted motor is a little kinder to the motor bearings as support is provided between the motor and the prop rather than everything hung out in front of the bearings and motor mountings. The bigger the motor the more important this aspect becomes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 (edited) https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/88365/ You're not the only one with this same question. See the Q&A tab. Hardly a briiliant idea to not include the correct prop adaptor. Not sure how they expect you to use the cross type mount supplied. All the retailers of these motors are at fault IMHO, I just used the link that I came across first. You can remove motor shafts with care, I've repaired quite a few bent ones for mates and a couple of my own - but hammering is crazy, even a copper head hammer will turn over the end of a shaft. A press of some type is really essential. Putting the new shaft in the freezer for a while will also ease the fit. Edited November 17, 2023 by Cuban8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 Whilst using a drill press is ideal I have successfully drifted out shafts on motors using an appropriated sized drift - that way the hammering is never actually encountering the end of the motor shaft and it is possible to tap very gently on the drift, enabling the removal of the shaft with no damage. Offcuts of electric retract legs make very nice drifts for smaller motor sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 7 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said: Personally, I prefer the adapters. No faffing about with grub screws and shafts, and the thicker prop shaft gives a little extra protection from a bent shaft caused by an 'arrival'. Always lots of alternatives, and opinions. So do I, but recently on a friends ARTF we found the adaptor was made of cheese metal, it nosed over on landing (grass was a bit long) and bent the adaptor, impossible to get it straight again and it happened to be a bespoke fitting so none of the spare ones I had would fit, arrrgh. Eventually found a motor in another ARTF which was laid up with the same adaptor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 I think you may have missed the motor mount link I gave yesterday - it was meant for the type of mount that mounts the motor from the front ( not back ) they mount the motor inside allowing the shaft to project forwards. Uses the type of prop adaptor you already have that fits onto shaft. Next time buy the type of motor that suits the bulkhead! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 7 hours ago, toto said: Thanks guys, The grub screws do come out but when applying a little force on the end of the shaft ...... it is rock solid so I've just tightened the grub screws back up and now await the adaptor. Toto I’m sure the grub screws are there to retain the shaft - bit of a waste of effort fitting them otherwise! When I’ve relocated (or changed - don’t ask!) motor shafts, I’ve always pressed them out with the aid of a vice and suitable spacers. Yes, they are an interference fit but without exception they've given way with a sharp crack and then come out with steady pressure. I suspect that taking a hammer to the job would risk “brinelling” damage to the bearing tracks, potentially affecting their service life and smooth running, as well as the possibility of damaging the shaft. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zflyer Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 Some shafts have a circlip in addition to the grub screws and need carefull looking at to see them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted November 17, 2023 Author Share Posted November 17, 2023 Yes, the shaft I have has a circlip. It's barely noticeable. The delivery of the shaft extension has been announced for tomorrow anyway so no need to risk getting heavy with the original shaft. Its debatable whether I'll get the chance to progress with it tomorrow night as I have a load of domestic and work commitments coming up. There is no real rush, I just like to have everything I need at hand for when I do want to progress. Progress has stopped on everything I am doing at the moment die to a full diary. I'll get back on it though over the next week and a bit with the odd amount of unplanned stolen time moments. I looked into shipping all my projects over to Steda in the Netherlands next week for my Client meetings but apparently customs weren't too keen. . I'm keen to learn whether or not this motor .... coupled with the existing 80 A ESC and 12 x 8 prop will give the required power to co p,eye the project. A weight of around 8.5lb at say 100w per lb means 850w required unless I am wrong. Slightly less may be acceptable. Fingers crossed. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 I saw this and thought of you, Toto... 😄 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Learner Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 5 hours ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said: I saw this and thought of you, Toto... 😄 That vid will come in handy as Toto's got that one already on order for the sky 120😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 18, 2023 Share Posted November 18, 2023 6 hours ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said: I saw this and thought of you, Toto... 😄 No steel toe caps in evidence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted November 18, 2023 Author Share Posted November 18, 2023 Very familiar ........Who's been filming in my back garden. Brilliant. Elf and safety rools. Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.