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My Warbirds Replicas FW190 build.


Eric Robson

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28 minutes ago, Don Fry said:

Mind, still not an answer. You can of course plead the 5 th Amendment. The form of words, from movies, is

 “ I plead the 5th”

 

PS, THATS NICE, AND INSTANT AIRFRAME. 

To clarify the situation,  I have always been impatient,  whether I was doing anything, going anywhere or just waiting for something to happen, doing a job i would keep going till it was finished . Going anywhere, she would say what's the rush, got to be there! " one day you will meet yourself coming back" Speedy Gonzales!

3 hours ago, Don Fry said:

Speedy, do tell more about that nickname. 

Quickies had nothing to do with it if thats what you're thinking Don.🤔 

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Thanks for the quick and complete build there Eric.

 

So in summary what's the things to look out for?

  • Canopy fillet
  • Additional balsa support
  • Beef up the motor mount
  • Rough the plastic parts before painting
  • Set the elevator neutral and watch out as its a bit sensitive? 

Anything else rom memory?

 

I won't be completing mine that fast for sure! I have a Tigercat to sort out...

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Pretty straightforward Chris,  don't sand the elevators too thin as the joiner goes back quite away and I broke through when drilling mine, not enough to be a problem. Don't forget the doubler for F2, it can be retro fitted but it is easier put on before the cowl wrapper. Hopefully most people will study the  template sheet, it is marked F2 bottom doubler  but not shown on the plan.

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Eric,

thanks for your feedback to all of us. Getting started on mine again and making progress on the fuselage.  It’s really  intuitive to put together, thanks to Richard. Only thought I have had is on the provision for the battery installation. The battery access panel fits perfectly between F1 and F2 with its spring loaded catch. Did you put any structure inside the cowl to support the battery? 
Gordon (not so speedy) 😀

IMG_1487.jpeg

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Gordon, I  am using  a 4s 3600 battery which fits diagonally from behind F1 to F2, it is a tight fit once the hatch is fitted and can't move. A smaller battery may need some restraint to stop the c of g movement. 

I have started adding some detail. A gun cover done with oil pastels 

20231226_224120.jpg

Edited by Eric Robson
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Another point worth noting is the dowel for the front of the wing.

I drilled the hole after the wings were glued together with epoxy, this made it difficult to keep the drill in line. It may be  better to either file a half groove in the wings before joining ad keep the epoxy away from the area then epoxy the dowel in after joining the wings .

Meanwhile some more detail work. 

20231227_103806.jpg

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2 hours ago, Ron Gray said:

Alternatively either offset dowel or use 2 dowels.

Yes Ron but someone building for the first time will want to use what's supplied and as the central hole is already in the former,may as well use it. Gone are the days when we could pop into the local model shop for bits and pieces. 

Side one completed now to do it all again. 

20231227_135835.jpg

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Eric, 

Could you please show a bit ore detail around the battery hatch please?  I’m nearly at the same stage as Gordon, I’ve glued the two sides together but haven’t glued the big, circular formers F1 and F2 yet, they are dry fitted.  I have the battery hatch cover with the pre drilled holes, it fits well.  I’m just struggling to understand how the latch is fitted and which bits come off? 
As always, a picture speaks a thousand words so here is where I’m at.

 

thanks!

 

IMG_2767.jpeg

IMG_2770.jpeg

Edited by Bucksboy
Forgot to add thanks.
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Hi Bucksboy, I hope this helps,  the catch is screwed to the underside of the plate with the screws provided. The plastic cover is trimmed to fit, you will find the most is trimmed from the front. I laid the vac formed cover for the guns in position after trimming it to fit, line the two pieces up with the notches in F2. I used Uhu glue to stick the vac forming to the hatch.

20231227_190356.jpg

20231227_190427.jpg

20231227_190351.jpg

20231227_190332.jpg

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34 minutes ago, Eric Robson said:

Hi Bucksboy, I hope this helps,  the catch is screwed to the underside of the plate with the screws provided. The plastic cover is trimmed to fit, you will find the most is trimmed from the front. I laid the vac formed cover for the guns in position after trimming it to fit, line the two pieces up with the notches in F2. I used Uhu glue to stick the vac forming to the hatch.

20231227_190356.jpg

20231227_190427.jpg

20231227_190351.jpg

20231227_190332.jpg

Thanks for your photos. They have answered almost all my unanswered questions after reading the first big thread. Definitely won’t need written instructions after all the information on these forums!

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On 27/12/2023 at 10:47, Eric Robson said:

Another point worth noting is the dowel for the front of the wing.

I drilled the hole after the wings were glued together with epoxy, this made it difficult to keep the drill in line. It may be  better to either file a half groove in the wings before joining ad keep the epoxy away from the area then epoxy the dowel in after joining the wings .

Meanwhile some more detail work. 

20231227_103806.jpg

The best way that I have found over the years is to join the wings and apply bandage, When dry cut out the area where the dowel goes. get 1/2" balsa and drill hole for dowel and glue. insert into former, align wing and cut balsa length to fit cutout of wing and glue in to wing cutout. One big advantage to this method is that you get perfect alignment of wing in all axises. Plus you are creating a weak point that is easily repairable.

Edited by Graham R
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Just a point about the hatch it is a snug fit and has to be inserted into the slot at a slight angle, to get good fit I didn't glue the vac forming on and trimmed the cowl wrapper till it was a neat fit. I then used uhu glue on  the sides of the hatch placing the vac cover on  I slid it into position and left it to let the glue set. Be careful not to get the glue on the outside or the hatch will be very awkward to remove. 

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On 27/12/2023 at 11:27, Ron Gray said:

Alternatively either offset dowel or use 2 dowels.

 

Another way is to cut away the foam at the l/e where you need the dowel and let in a lump of softish balsa, which is easy to drill and glue in the dowel.  IIRC that was the method Precedent used to join the foam wings of the FunFly I built to pass my 'A' 25 years ago.  Precedent also slotted the wings to accept a 3mm ply dihedral brace - a method I used to join the wings on my Mew Gull.

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