Lipo Man Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 On 02/01/2024 at 14:17, Eric Robson said: Mine has a Racestar 4250 800kv on 4s with a 13 x8 prop and it is overpowered at full throttle, half throttle gives a good scale speed. The intention was to use the Overlander 3548 900kv but the one I have was playing up. I don't think there is much difference in weight but my 190 balances without any ballast. Racestar motors seem hard to get now Banggood had them in about £16 but are out of stock, I have seen them on Ebay for twice the price so you may as well get the 3548's from 4 Max or Overlander instead of waiting 3 weeks for delivery. If anyone does need a motor, Banggood seem to have the Racestar 4250 800kv in stock for about £15 plus delivery. I ordered one on Christmas Day and it arrived this morning. It’ll be fitted tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Another tip - once you’ve joined the wing panels together, but before you add the fibreglass reinforcement “bandage” (?), check the fit of your wing to the fuselage. In my case the wing was too long - and a bit more shaping on the leading edge before glassing would have been an easier job than adjusting after I had added the glass tape. Not a big deal but worth checking! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 A video on using brown paper as a covering material 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Hi Ron, I am sure your vidio ( terrible internet here so will view when in library in town ) will be of great benefit to me, others and especially younger modellers. I am sure you and others, us older uns, as well as myself, will remember reading in aeromodeller and other magazines of the 70's and 80's, even earlier, of coloured wrapping paper being used as a covering very successfully. I fact, that is were I got the idea of cereal packet cardboard pva glued straight onto white foam shaped wing cores, making them very rigid and tough, taking paint, humbrol enamel in my case, well, resulting in a cheap and easy relatively light wing for control liners at the time. At the time money was so so tight with us, economy, adaptability, recycling, inventiveness was the order of the day. These days people just go out and buy..... Do you Remember the solvite advert ? Using the autoshop brown paper is an off shoot of this idea/activity. Even corrugated cardboard was utilised. Anyways, a good vidio to watch, learn and inwardly digest. Thanks Ron. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 If you are going to cut the ailerons out by making cuts on both lower and upper surfaces then when using the provided ply aileron template make sure to increase the width on the top surface by about 2mm so that the resultant cut is vertical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu knowles Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Apologies fpr crashing Ron's thread but these are half decent images of the FW 190 panel which builder may find useful 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 As an alternative to DM Rocket Powder used by Ron to support the servo blocks, you can use ordinary Bicarbonate of Soda (supermarket cooking isle <£1) for the same result. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Or indeed microballons. I'm really enjoying Ron's videos - it's a real education seeing how we do things slightly differently and picking up lots of tips. When I make a fillet I tend to put the microballoons on first then just put a drop of CA onto the powder. Wait until it has gone off, then blow away the excess. Looking at those lovely FW190 instrument panels and thinking of microballoons, many years ago I made an instrument panel for my Mick Reeves FW190d and cast the instrument bevels from microballoons and CA, using a plasticine mould of a made up master bevel. It worked really well. In this case though I'll be 3D printing a panel from the excellent files on the RCSB website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Thanks Brian When you 3D print the instrument panel, print out the panel image then stick it to the back of the instrument panel. I then use Gorilla Glue clear dropped into the instrument recesses, which when dry looks like glass. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 I usually make a sandwich of the 3D printed panel, a sheet of clear acetate to simulate the instrument glass and then the images, typically of individual instruments, to allow for any slight differences in positioning of the image vs the 3D print. The add any placards, switches, compass cards etc to the front and paint round any coloured bezels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Great fun chaps . How about adding toggle switches ? I just use the thin solder , drill a hole , cyno in, and squash the outer part with flat pliers . You end up with a perfect toggle switch . I know these are simple models but why not experiment as you are all doing? Wouldnt it be boring if we all stuck to the "standard build"? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 For the brass dome switches that are often found on WWI instrument panels I've used a brass slotted screw head and soldered the stem of a brass drawing pin in the slot, with a tiny blob of solder on the end. Likewise for on modern panels - a pin with a wee drop of solder or glue on the end. What I call Blue Peter modelling and just a bit of daft fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew exton Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 was just wondering which make of servo & were did you get the from Ron that you showed in your video cheers andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 The ones I’m using are Tower Pro MG92B and I get them from The PiHut but others supply them too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew exton Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 12 hours ago, Ron Gray said: The ones I’m using are Tower Pro MG92B and I get them from The PiHut but others supply them too. Thanks Ron 👍 andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 (edited) Hi Folks, just a quick one here. I found that once I had fitted the motor and speed controller to the fuse that it kept rolling around the workbench, driving me mad and making it annoying to work on. I do have a stand but it takes up a lot of room on the bench. My solution is a hacked around bit of cardboard box masking-taped on - sorted, makes life much easier! Cheers, Simon Edited February 4 by mightypeesh 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 (edited) A word of caution if you are using brown paper to cover your model, even very low tack masking tape and paint mask film can pull off the top layer of the brown paper (don’t ask). So when sticking the mask down only apply sufficient pressure to lightly attach it to the surface! Edited February 7 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew exton Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 hi all would this motor be ok for the fw190 as all have spare in my stock are 550kv or 450kv not sure on quality or im i better going to 4max for a motor thanks in advance andy https://www.rclife.co.uk/Brushless-Motors/Brushless-Outrunner-Motors/Surpass-Hobby-C3548-900kv-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 That should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 2 hours ago, andrew exton said: hi all would this motor be ok for the fw190 as all have spare in my stock are 550kv or 450kv not sure on quality or im i better going to 4max for a motor thanks in advance andy https://www.rclife.co.uk/Brushless-Motors/Brushless-Outrunner-Motors/Surpass-Hobby-C3548-900kv-Brushless-Outrunner-Motor One of the features of low KV motors is that by design they rotate slower than a higher KV motor for the same applied voltage. You can counter this if your motor is rated for a higher voltage so say 6S (two 3S packs in series) but they tend to be more expensive along with the ESC's so not really worth it IMO. Just saying you have a 1100KV motor on 3S and you then fancy fitting a 550KV, well on 3S it will turn roughly half the speed. Not good unless you have a light slow flying model. The alternative is to increase the size of the prop in diameter and possibly in pitch to achieve the same thrust, but normally you would run out of ground clearence with the UC or in our case more likely to break props and it will look odd with a large diameter prop on a FW190! Could go 3 blade but that just means more prop breaking for belly landers PS theoretically higher voltages and lower currents are more efficient, but it comes at a increased cost of components so swings and roundabouts. This is part of the reason Richard has designed the models this size as it hits a seat spot between cost and performance. I'll have tea and then post my motor tests and hopefully that will help! PPS I'll go against the grain as say at 4S a 550KV is too low ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 1 minute ago, Chris Walby said: One of the features of low KV motors is that by design they rotate slower than a higher KV motor for the same applied voltage. You can counter this if your motor is rated for a higher voltage so say 6S (two 3S packs in series) but they tend to be more expensive along with the ESC's so not really worth it IMO. Just saying you have a 1100KV motor on 3S and you then fancy fitting a 550KV, well on 3S it will turn roughly half the speed. Not good unless you have a light slow flying model. The alternative is to increase the size of the prop in diameter and possibly in pitch to achieve the same thrust, but normally you would run out of ground clearence with the UC or in our case more likely to break props and it will look odd with a large diameter prop on a FW190! Could go 3 blade but that just means more prop breaking for belly landers PS theoretically higher voltages and lower currents are more efficient, but it comes at a increased cost of components so swings and roundabouts. This is part of the reason Richard has designed the models this size as it hits a seat spot between cost and performance. I'll have tea and then post my motor tests and hopefully that will help! PPS I'll go against the grain as say at 4S a 550KV is too low ! The motor that is linked to is 900kv though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 7 Author Share Posted February 7 3 hours ago, andrew exton said: as all have spare in my stock are 550kv or 450kv hence why he's asking about the 900Kv one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Yes, so I'm not seeing why not recommending a 550kv motor is going against the grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew exton Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Hi sorry if my post is a bit misleading, yes I am looking at the 900kv motor as I with my limited knowledge that the 550 & 450 kv sent suitable for the reasons mentioned but your posts have provided info thanks andy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Hi, I was going to post this and after sitting in the "didn't read the post corner" thought it would be worth while anyway! I have a 600KV motor spare so would like to use it, but some testing might clarify things so here goes Originally it had a 3 blade 12x7 prop which on 4S pulls 42A and 614W, but as 3 blade is not an option let us this as a base. A 2 blade 12x8 on 4S produces 25A and 391W A 2 blade 12x9 on 4S produces 30A and 450W IIRC 12 inch prop might be a bit big (in diameter) for the FW190 + more likely to get broken, but 11X10 (down one on diameter, up one on pitch is approx the same) as 12x9 feels quite pitchy to me and might not suit the model. I can't remember what everyone else is using KV and prop wise, but my current thinking is maiden on the 12x9, then try out the 12x8. If that lot fails then 13x8, but I don't think its that draggy a model. Hope that helps A better option is to go for a 900KV motor....or 8S and a 500KV 🙄 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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