Battery connector

[tiny-james]

So I'm thinking of buying some batteries for this  Pheonix 1600 but I can't find any infomation on what battery connectors the model uses

 

How do I find out with out opening the plane box as it's a christmas gift from my wife

[Rich Griff]

A suprise for Xmas morning eh !

 

But you know what it is already, lol.

 

Like you I am new to electric propulsion, more ci ( diesel ) and glow....born with oily hands.

 

Try the kit manufacturer perhaps ?

 

Some connectors are not liked, like the "blade" type. The "bullet" type are preferred it seems.

 

Look on somewhere like 4 max and have a chat with George.

 

I know what you are going thru as a recent purchase that arrived the other day had no real written instructions, only a non sensical sticker that just does not cut the mustard for me.

 

I am waiting for some clear guidance and instructions from the distributor. 

 

Guessing and electronics don't mix and usually result in majic smoke and flames !

 

Anyways that a thread for next week. The power of social media if I don't get some proper guidance.

 

I could just send it back but that will not sort the problem, only pass the problem on.

Edited November 11, 2022 by Rich Griff

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

30 minutes ago, tiny-james said:

So I'm thinking of buying some batteries for this  Pheonix 1600 but I can't find any infomation on what battery connectors the model uses

 

How do I find out with out opening the plane box as it's a christmas gift from my wife

 

Buy the Lipos with a connector of your choice, buy a connector (female) ? to suit in case the esc has different or none, XT 60 would be my choice.

[Rich Griff]

Research the motor first which will probably have bullet connectors.

 

Next research your chosen electronic speed controller for matching motor connections.

 

Next would be your battery with compatable connectors to the speed controller. Check the ESC ( electronic speed controller ) for connectors to the reciever ( Rx ), they need to be the same as your Rx.

Edited November 11, 2022 by Rich Griff

[Rich Griff]

Xt60 the larger bullet type.

 

Get a few male and female as they need to be soldered.

 

A few, because you may "melt" the plastic blocks the first time you solder them. I did the first time with xt30's.

 

Soldering the block to the battery leads, be extremely extremely extremely carefull as the battery will be LIVE !!!!

 

You have stuff like heat shrink etc.....

 

DO NOT SHORT CIRCUIT the battery !!  Majic smoke and flames !!!!!!!!!

[Sparks]

If you watch the beginning of the video from the Pheonix 1600 link, you can see that the model's battery connector is an XT60 (and that the owner is using an XT60 to Deans adaptor to suit the battery he is using)

[EarlyBird]

XT60 like this

 

Radient Lipo battery 2S 1600mAh 7 4V 30C XT60 (rapidrcmodels.com)

[leccyflyer]

This is a ready to fly model and as Sparks has correctly indicated the model appears to come with XT60 connector on the ESC, whilst the reviewer in the video is using Deans connector on the battery, via an adapter. Personally I prefer not to use adaptors, but that's a personal choice. The battery that EarlyBird shows seems to have the correct connector. If you are buying batteries from new and you have not settled on a particular connector type, as a beginner, there is no requirement for you to be changing connectors if you just select that XT60 connector.

[leccyflyer]

26 minutes ago, Rich Griff said:

Research the motor first which will probably have bullet connectors.

 

Next research your chosen electronic speed controller for matching motor connections.

 

Next would be your battery with compatable connectors to the speed controller. Check the ESC ( electronic speed controller ) for connectors to the reciever ( Rx ), they need to be the same as your Rx.

It's a ready to fly model. The motor connections and the ESC to RX connections are already taken care of. As is the battery connection if the OP follows the advice given in Sparks and Earlybird's posts. No need to be worrying about changing connectors, worrying about short circuits, melting connectors,  fire and flames, ESc to motor connectors or anything else.

[Simon Chaddock]

tiny-james

From what I can see in the video on the web site you linked to in you post the ESC terminates in at XT60 although the pilot is using a Deans adapter to fit his battery.

This video right at the end clearly shows an XT60 connector.

Hope this helps.

[PatMc]

48 minutes ago, Simon Chaddock said:

tiny-james

From what I can see in the video on the web site you linked to in you post the ESC terminates in at XT60 although the pilot is using a Deans adapter to fit his battery.

This video right at the end clearly shows an XT60 connector.

Hope this helps.

T-J & Simon, the video is 5 years old, the latest version of the model has several design changes. However AFAIK the main change is the way the wings are fitted.

I actually won a kit of the version in the video at my club AGM raffle about 3 years ago. I can confirm that the motor & ESC had all the connectors already fitted ready to be plugged up. Mine has the XT60 power connector on the ESC & I don't remember changing or fitting it so I'm pretty certain that's how it came out of the box. 

 

[MattyB]

Battery plug adapters are not my favourite; I would only them in extreme situations when there is no other option, as soldering on a new ESC connector is so simple. 

[tiny-james]

The Batteries I have ordered have Dean connectors so If needed I will change the connector to suit 

 

20 connector are only £8.00 on amazon 

 

 

I have two batteries that are 3s and 11.1v 2200 I take it I can't use these as the recomended are 2s 7.4v 1590

[Simon Chaddock]

tiny-james

Just a word of caution but soldering wires onto a Deans connector is not quite a simple as say for an XT 60. The Deans really does need an iron with a big enough bit to provide a substantial burst of heat to melt the solder effectively, particularly on the Deans, without over heating the plastic body and thus upsetting how the blades make contact. You will need some shrink wrap to insulate the soldered connections.

A poorly soldered connection is a remarkably common cause of problems with the 'power' plugs in electric flight. 

 

It might be better to buy a ready made XT60 to Deans converter just like the guy used in the video. 

Cheap enough but just make sure you get the correct male/female combination that matches the plugs on the battery and plane. 😉  

[PatMc]

1 hour ago, tiny-james said:

The Batteries I have ordered have Dean connectors so If needed I will change the connector to suit 

 

20 connector are only £8.00 on amazon 

 

 

I have two batteries that are 3s and 11.1v 2200 I take it I can't use these as the recomended are 2s 7.4v 1590

The motor fitted to the Pheonix is rated at 1400KV (1400 rpm/V when unloaded). This means that if a 3s battery was used with the supplied prop the load on the motor would cause the current (amps) to be too great for the motor & ESC causing one or both of them to burn out. A smaller prop could be used with 3s but would not be as efficient, resulting in poor climb & generally disappointing performance.

 

    

[Allan Bennett]

8 hours ago, tiny-james said:

The Batteries I have ordered have Dean connectors so If needed I will change the connector to suit 

 

20 connector are only £8.00 on amazon  . . . 

 

First, I doubt if the Amazon connectors are genuine Deans -- read the reviews on Amazon.  They may be competent clones, but they may be rubbish too.

 

Before you change the ESC connector to Deans, you need to consider what else will need the plugs changing.  Your charger is one obvious candidate, and maybe a wattmeter too.  If you're only buying a couple of batteries with Deans connectors it may still be better to change those battery connectors to match what you already have.  Even though I'm a Deans user (genuine ones in Deans branded packaging) I have to admit that XT60 is the most common plug system in use today, especially when you buy RTF or ARTF models with electronics already installed.

[MattyB]

Changing from XT60 to Deans is like swapping Lindt for a Mars bar. Deans works, but it’s harder to solder, is less efficient under load area with a lower peak current rating (due to less contact area) and is prone to going slack over time. Do yourself a favour and change the battery connectors to XT60, it’s a far better option in the long run. 

[GrumpyGnome]

I hate Deans connectors..... yeuk!  Right pain to solder.

[Allan Bennett]

8 minutes ago, MattyB said:

Changing from XT60 to Deans is like swapping Lindt for a Mars bar. Deans works, but it’s harder to solder, is less efficient under load area with a lower peak current rating (due to less contact area) and is prone to going slack over time. Do yourself a favour and change the battery connectors to XT60, it’s a far better option in the long run. 

 

I like Mars Bars 😀 

 

Deans are supposedly rated for 60A continuous and 75A peak, so theoretically the same as XT60.  I've got a couple of models drawing mid-50A, and never had a failure or any hint of overheating (which can be caused by poor contact).

[MattyB]

13 minutes ago, Allan Bennett said:

 

I like Mars Bars 😀 

 

Deans are supposedly rated for 60A continuous and 75A peak, so theoretically the same as XT60.  I've got a couple of models drawing mid-50A, and never had a failure or any hint of overheating (which can be caused by poor contact).

I’ve definitely had a Deans get hot in an early PNP model, but I strongly suspect it was not the genuine article. My big issue with Deans is that they are so much harder to solder well than a bullet based system, and the spring can go slack meaning they need regular checks and occasional replacement. I’ve never had to do that on any bullet based system.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Dark Chocolate for me, oh n XT60.

[Outrunner]

XT60 for myself too, and XT30 for small models. I used Dean's before XT60s and wether they are genuine or copies they are a right pain to solder properly. Dean's can be difficult to get part sometimes but I suspect they were copies.

 

[Simon Chaddock]

I have no problem with Deans being hard to get apart, it just needs strong fingers!   It is hopefully a sign that the blades are making a good area contact. A Deans that pulls apart easily is to me a cause for concern.

I do use XT60 but a Deans is still the smallest and lightest for its amp rating. 

 

[Rich Griff]

Dean's hard to separate, so are the xt bullet types.

 

I asked some time ago about soldering deans connectors. Do you guys drill a suitable hole in the soldered part to pass the wire through prior to soldering flat on the blade, and trim after soldering ?

 

It is possible to arrange a "heat sink" so as not to have the plastic bodies melting, BUT, when soldering the plugs to a LIVE battery, DO NOT SHORT CIRCUIT !!!!

 

Some times a third, fourth and fifth "hand" is needed.

 

Just be extremely extremely carefull !

 

Soldering the first battery wire to the bullet or blade is "safe", but due to the close proximity of the terminals, after heat shrink, I placed a heat tolerant "insulator" between the terminals so when soldering the second battery wire on, there was no risk of a momentary short circuit.

 

Happy days.

 

[Bruce Collinson]

What I found very helpful when abandoning Deans and going entirely to XT 60, and 90 in 6S+, was that my local model shop soldered the whole lot for me.   I recall it was for the cost of the proper (Amass?) new fittings plus a tenner.

 

I felt like a bit of a wimp at the time but reading the thread above, evidently I’m not the only one who struggled to solder Deans.   Bullets are so much simpler.

 

Rich Griff’s anxiety re shorting batteries is shared.   I heatshrink the second lead until the first is in place and duly heatshrunk before exposing the second for soldering, and putting the second part of the plug in as a heat sink and to prevent distortion needs similar circumspection.

 

BTC