Fixed Speed vs Variable Speed Scroll Saw and recommendations please.

[Tim Kearsley]

I'm contemplating buying a scroll saw, mainly to cut out ply components.  I've used a fretsaw up until now, but I find it quite laborious and the result is never very satisfactory - due to my complete lack of ability with hand saws!  I'm looking at the Axminster AW405SS, which seems a decent spec for the price.  Any forum members using one?  Or any other suggestions? 

Thanks.

Tim.

 

[Tim Donald]

I've been looking at one of these too.  I was originally looking at the machine mart ones but I like the 3 year guarantee on the Axminster ones (the others seem to just be a year).  I've not tried one myself so can't comment on what they are like.  

[David Hazell 1]

I've got a lidl one and I found it brilliant for cutting out fuselage formers and for rough shaping block balsa. Thoroughly recommend.

[kc]

Scroll saws are very handy for cutting formers etc in ply etc.   Cutting straight lines is not as easy as it seems!   The skill of the user is the thing - steady pressure and not rushing works.   Blade tension is important and blade quality is too.   Pin ended blades are not easy to obtain and they are fairly coarse, so ensure you get a plain fretsaw adaptor too as these blades are much easier to buy and can be much finer ( for marquetry etc )    Pin ended blades are fine for our use but note they are not the same length as the easily available coping saw blades.

My very similar Aminster saw was bought in the 1980's when they were reduced from 120 pounds to about 90 and reduced until just a few years ago the came down to about 50.    So whether it's good value at 130 is difficult to say.   Sometimes you see very similar saws secondhand at low prices and they might be very similar in construction but without variable speed and dust blower etc.   However the quick release blade system found on recent models would be handy for internal cuts on formers etc.

Scrolls saws are much safer than bandsaws and can only just cut the skin. 

The sanding blades seem a natty idea and might be worth trying for our use.   Read the reviews before buying and note how you could make some yourself with an emery board glued to an old saw blade.

Axminster are a good firm to deal with in my experience some years ago.  Might be worth going to their depots to see the machines and try them.

Edited March 9, 2023 by kc

[leccyflyer]

I bought a Rexon scroll saw at the Model Engineering exhibition in the 90's, carried it miles back to the car - they are heavy - and then didn't have a place to use it, up until a couple of years ago. It's like this one.

 

 

I find it's an excellent tool for cutting ply, which is the main use I have made of it so far - so much better than struggling with a fretsaw or coping saw in my case. Agree with the comments on keeping a straight line requiring practice. Regarding the blades, I've found that it is very easy to break a blade if you're an inexperienced user like me, with the slightest sideway force and that blade tension is critical for that. There are some great set-up videos on You Tube though which help and I don't break them as often now.

 

[Don Fry]

I would try very hard to try before you buy. I use an old Dremel saw I bought second hand 35? years ago. Practice and familiarity makes it a precise tool.

I’m aware how old it is, so was delighted when given a Clarke unit.

The delight didn’t last. The Clarke unit was a rough cutting tool, not for me. Got shot of it. 
Horses for courses, see it suits first.

[Tim Kearsley]

Thank you very much chaps for the replies.  It seems you can pay anything from just over £100 upwards for a new scroll saw.  I presume many of the cheaper items are of Chinese origin?

One further question to those who already use a scroll saw:  Do you have it bolted down or free-standing?

[Don Fry]

Free standing on rubber feet.

[Tim Kearsley]

1 minute ago, Don Fry said:

Free standing on rubber feet.

Thanks Don.  You're earlier reply also noted - good point.

[leccyflyer]

Mine is free-standing on a solidly fixed metal metal bench. There's a fair bit of vibration with the reciprocating motion, but it hasn't been a problem so far. I was going to put a couple of bolts through the baseplate and bolt it to the bench at first, but I'm glad that I didn't. You can just make it out here to the left of the bandsaw. That's an old picture, the bandsaw has been relocated and the scroll saw occupies that space, whilst the 3D printer sits where the scroll saw was previously. 

[Tim Kearsley]

Nice workshop!

[John Lee]

In 2020 I replaced my 40 year old Dremel saw with this German made Proxxon Saw: https://www.germantools.co.uk/product/proxxon-dsh-2-speed-fretsaw-240v-702063/ It is bolted to my bench , as per the manufacturer's instructions.

 

I've been sufficiently pleased with it to the extent that I subsequently bought a Proxxon Disk Sander.

[Graham Bowers]

I use on of those, mainly for plywood parts, and I've been completely happy with it.

[Graham Bowers]

47 minutes ago, Tim Kearsley said:

Thank you very much chaps for the replies.  It seems you can pay anything from just over £100 upwards for a new scroll saw.  I presume many of the cheaper items are of Chinese origin?

One further question to those who already use a scroll saw:  Do you have it bolted down or free-standing?

Free standing as it lives under the bench when not in use, and at the lower end of the speed range.  I like the idea of rubber feet.

[Andy-H]

I have recently acquired an old but good condition single-speed Ferm scroll saw.  This is my first experience with one of these saws so am still on a learning curve. Didn’t cost much and the seller was very local so an easy decision for me.

 

Many scroll saw recommendations say go for one with a variable speed. Just wondered what the main advantage might be over and above what I can do with the one I’ve bought. I’m using it to cut ply up to 6mm, balsa and occasionally thin aluminium. 

 

I thought I might be able to add a speed control but having looked into this, that may be complicated. 

 

Would welcome thoughts from anyone with more experience - when is it useful to slow down the speed ?

 

Thanks.
 

 

[Andy-H]

Apologies for any duplication - I’ve just seen there’s another thread running on scroll saws…..

[Outrunner]

Tim I've got one of those Axminster AW405SS saws although mine was £99 a couple of years ago. Uses pinned or unpinned blades that are easy to find.

 

Rubbish at cutting straight lines but that's down to my lack of technique rather than the saw. Mainly used for cutting curved ply pieces so not a problem, if I need a straight cut I use a knife.

 

Useful for cutting plastics and soft metals too.

[kc]

My saw sits on the pad once used for old fashioned typewriters - thick felt of just the right size.  A couple of thickness of carpet or felt would do.  I would not bolt it down!    If the blade tensioner is underneath at the back you need frequent access and may need to move it for access.

Cheap blades can be brittle & break easily while good quality seem to last because they are a better material which can be a little flexible.

 

Most of the saws seem to be basically the same design and perhaps the same factory - at one time they were from Taiwan. 

[Tim Kearsley]

2 minutes ago, Outrunner said:

Tim I've got one of those Axminster AW405SS saws although mine was £99 a couple of years ago. Uses pinned or unpinned blades that are easy to find.

 

Rubbish at cutting straight lines but that's down to my lack of technique rather than the saw. Mainly used for cutting curved ply pieces so not a problem, if I need a straight cut I use a knife.

 

Useful for cutting plastics and soft metals too.

Thank you.  Sounds like inflation has had its effect on the price then!  Yes, I know scroll saws aren't the go-to tool for cutting a straight line.  I don't really have the space for both a bandsaw and a scroll saw and I think I'll get more use from the latter.  Like you, I use a knife for thinner grades of ply. 

[David Hazell 1]

3 hours ago, Tim Kearsley said:

Thank you very much chaps for the replies.  It seems you can pay anything from just over £100 upwards for a new scroll saw.  I presume many of the cheaper items are of Chinese origin?

One further question to those who already use a scroll saw:  Do you have it bolted down or free-standing?

Lidl one is about £70, and is basically a Schepach unit or similar. I've not snapped a blade yet, but maybe I'm lucky. I've only cut out two plan builds so far which involves cutting fairly thin birch ply or lite ply. After a bit of practise it gets easier, you learn the ways of the machine. But I'm really glad I picked one up. Mines bolted by the way.

 

My lidl one is identical to this: https://offers.kd2.org/en/gb/lidl/pgeLI/

 

I'm not sure when they'll release it next, but keep an eye out. 3 year guarantee too!

Edited March 9, 2023 by David Hazell 1

[PatMc]

I have both a scroll saw & bandsaw. If I could only choose one it would be the bandsaw.

Tip for cutting straight lines with scroll saw - mark the lines first with a Stanley knife (deep as you safely can). Not 100% guaranteed but it gives the blade something to follow. 

[Basil]

4 hours ago, Tim Kearsley said:

I'm contemplating buying a scroll saw, mainly to cut out ply components.  I've used a fretsaw up until now, but I find it quite laborious and the result is never very satisfactory - due to my complete lack of ability with hand saws!  I'm looking at the Axminster AW405SS, which seems a decent spec for the price.  Any forum members using one?  Or any other suggestions? 

Thanks.

Tim.

 

I have one!. Found it most satisfactory. They also do a 'Round' blade that can navigate curves really well, viz flat blades.

Bas

 

[Martin Dance 1]

The axminster 405ss looks very similar to the record power scroll saw which I have. It takes both pin ended and plain ended blades and is a well built machine. The trick is to buy good quality blades.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

We had two threads, I merged into one fellas.

[kc]

AndyH    a finer toothed blade would be an alternative to reducing speed as you then feed the material in slower.   The variable speed electronics seem a weak point anyway, so in my view you are better off with single speed.  Suit the blade to the job.

 

Don mentioned a Dremel saw.   Most people seem to think more modern saws are better and but last I heard was Dremel sawblades were difficult to get or unobtainable.   Again a different length of pin ended blade.

 

Don't buy an expensive machine that won't take ordinary fretsaw blades - relying on pin ended blades that may not be available in future.   But a really cheap secondhand machine ( but not a Dremel) that only takes pin ended  might be worth buying - seller may not have found a supplier of blades!

 

Finally if you only have a coping saw to use try fitting the blades to cut on the pull stroke ( the opposite way to text books say! ) and you will find it cuts much better.