Fixed Speed vs Variable Speed Scroll Saw and recommendations please.

[Andy-H]

That’s very helpful, thank you. The scroll saw I bought looks very similar to the Rexon model pictured above and appears to be very reliable. I just wasn’t sure if the lack of variable speed was a disadvantage. Swapping blades seems a sensible compromise.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

I buy best tools I can afford when they're getting regular use in a work place, for modeling Aldi/Screwfix etc are plenty good enough, straight lines ? my formers get a tickle on the belt/disc sander so it ain't a big deal.

[leccyflyer]

2 hours ago, PatMc said:

I have both a scroll saw & bandsaw. If I could only choose one it would be the bandsaw.

Tip for cutting straight lines with scroll saw - mark the lines first with a Stanley knife (deep as you safely can). Not 100% guaranteed but it gives the blade something to follow. 

Thanks Pat,  I'll give that a try.

 

That Ron Gray chap is tempting me just now  with other hi-tech ways to cut a straight line though 😄

[Andy-H]

If it’s of any help, I wasn’t sure how useful a scroll saw might be. I noticed that they often sold on eBay for not a lot of money (I paid £35 for mine) but they were usually sold on a ‘collect in person’ basis due to being heavy. Luckily, I found one being sold locally so grabbed it. For £35, if it didn’t work out, no great loss.
 

Now I’ve bought one and tried it, they are great. The one I bought is a bit of a lump but it’s possibly more substantial than one I might pick up from Lidl or Screwfix. Doesn’t vibrate that much and is fairly quiet (looks almost identical to the Rexon unit pictured above). It’s only single speed but kc earlier suggested using finer cut blades as an alternative to variable speed. 
 

I can make straightish cuts but I have to feed the workpiece at a very slight angle to the blade. I’ve found it easy enough to finish it off afterwards with a sanding stick or Permagrit block to give me a straight edge. 
 

If it broke, would I replace it - having used one for two weeks, yes, in a flash. What would I buy, not sure. I have a suspicion that they don’t make ‘em like they used to, and for my limited requirements, a good old’un might be better that a cheap new’un. After all, they are fairly simple so not much to go wrong. I would add than mine only takes pinned blades but I’m mainly cutting formers with big holes so having to drill a 6mm hole in order to slip the blade through for an internal cut isn’t a big issue. 

 

 

 

[kc]

We all seem to agree that an electric scrollsaw is worth having,  however I would say that even having a scrollsaw it's still worth also having a piercing saw ( jewellers saw - a tiny version of the hand fretsaw ) for those small jobs or even to cut out a few formers.    Axminster sell one for less than £6 which seems very similar to the Eclipse one sold for many years.   Very handy and takes much finer blades than a coping saw.   You might also find an old Eclipse one ( chromed not painted ) in old tool sales but make sure it comes with the proper blade clamps and thumbscrews.   A most handy tool to keep near the workbench.  

 

[Andy Gates]

I too have the Lidl one which has done me fine & is bolted to the bench.

Blades that came with it were not particularly suitable for modelling use but I found a pack of 50 fine toothed blades which have made it far more usable.

 

As to the variable speed, yes I do use that too, slower for plastic (so it does not melt together again after passing) and for cutting aluminum.

 

Useful purchase.

[Ariel]

I have one of these saws and for the money it's good. I bought some Pegas modified geometry pinless blades which are much better than what it comes with.

Cuts up to 6mm Birch ply with no issues and very clean cut on Balsa and thin ply too. I keep the variable speed reasonably low. Each blade / material has a sweet spot 

The table insert that came with it was too thin and sat below the table in places so I made a new one from 3mm ply which is exactly flush making cutting more predictable. I also replaced the M3 Allen screws in the blade clamp with some better ones as the ones it comes with are very soft and the socket strips. You don't need to over tighten them anyway.

The clamp  to hold the workpiece down is rubbish (too wide not straight) so that can be thrown away. Ditto the bellows for dust clearance. I have mine connected to a dust extractor and that's more than enough. I use it freestanding without screwing it down and put it back on the shelf when I don't need it. No issues with vibration.

Sounds like I'm really down on it but with a bit of fettling it's a really good tool. Right blade, right cut speed and a bit of practice and it's absolutely fine.

 

[Ariel]

It's Axminster Scroll saw I'm talking about BTW

[Trevor]

Another vote for the Lidl Scroll saw. I'm still on the blade supplied but will look out for the finer blades Andy mentioned.

 

Trevor

[Andy Gates]

50 x SCROLL SAW BLADES 25-TPI FRET 130mm LONG 2-PIN

These are what I purchased Trevor but I can't currently find them again in 25 TPI

[kc]

Quality counts in blades -I would only buy Swiss, British, German or Swedish makes.   Cheap blades breaking is horrible  ( a shock when close) and takes time to re-fit, so it's no dearer to use the best which last much longer.  Axminster sell Swiss at about £3 for 6  and also skip tooth at £3 for 12 ( use on thicker timber )   25TPI is a useful size and perhaps more TPI for fine work.  Some are 127mm others 130mm -there is enough adjustment on most machines.  Read the reviews there for useful comments about pins slipping out from holder etc.  

 

Practice is needed with scroll saws. Pressing down firmly onto base whilst letting the blade cut rather than forcing is the technique.    I reckon that for 90 Degree internal corners on formers etc it's easier to drill a 4mm hole at each corner rather than turn a sharp corner which is where the blade often breaks.   Neater corners that way and less finishing  too. 

Edited March 10, 2023 by kc

[Don Fry]

In fairness to scroll saws, none (I’ve used) cut straight.  Change blade brand, the offset angle changes, but the angle is constant. Learn the angle. But they do a fretsaws job with care, without effort, and less skill, don’t hurry a cut. Get the saw at a comfortable hight, so you can slump and the wood surrenders first. 

 

[Don Fry]

KC, my ancient Dremel is fed by blades from Hawaii. Hard, sharp, stays sharp. Yanky steel. 

[kc]

Dremel blades are a unique size I think,  they don't suit other machines.   ( are they Yankees in Hawaii??? )

 

It takes  a lot to blunt a good blade - probably more than  a dozen planes worth of ply formers,  but by raising the work on a  scrap table you can use the unused top part of the blade.  

Backing the wood with masking tape etc  can help getting neat cuts in splintery ply,  birch ply cuts nicely though.

With a new machine check that the table is really at 90 degrees to blade - don't believe the marker and reset marker if needed.   Check that the blade holders recess is really square too - especially if breaking blades a lot.   Putting the blade in across the table ( that's what the extra slot is for! ) can be useful for long work.

The man selling the best quality fretsaws at the old Model Engineer show used to demonstrate that he could put his fingers against the moving blade without injury.  Of course it depends on the coarseness of blade and length of stroke!   But if you also catch the fixed table you can draw blood just expect Elastoplast cure rather than a hospital visit.  

One feature I would look for on a machine is a work light pointing at the cutline.   Older machines like mine lack that and also lack the fixed cover to top arm which could be used to afix a light.

[David P Williams]

13 minutes ago, kc said:

 

It takes  a lot to blunt a good blade - probably more than  a dozen planes worth of ply formers,  but by raising the work on a  scrap table you can use the unused top part of the blade.  

 

Cutting glassfibre sheet will make the teeth disappear pretty quickly……

[Stuart Z]

I went for Proxxon for size- I don’t cut parts much but their small scroll saw is great for ribs and straight cuts I use their small table saw.  Not heavy duty but store away leaving bench space free.  Not had problems with either. 

[Ron Gray]

On 09/03/2023 at 18:27, leccyflyer said:

That Ron Gray chap is tempting me just now  with other hi-tech ways to cut a straight line though

Just saw (no pun intended) my reference and have to say that my scroll and table saws will be getting very little use in the future! ⚡️

[Tim Kearsley]

1 hour ago, Ron Gray said:

Just saw (no pun intended) my reference and have to say that my scroll and table saws will be getting very little use in the future! ⚡️

I presume that's because you're into laser cutting now Ron?

[leccyflyer]

Obi-Ron-Gray-Nobi ?

[Tim Kearsley]

12 minutes ago, leccyflyer said:

Obi-Ron-Gray-Nobi ?

I don't think he uses a light-sabre to cut ribs out leccy!!

[Robin Colbourne]

I had been umming and aahing about buying a scroll saw, particularly after seeing them in Lidl a few times.  Eventually they had one with their orange 30% off label on it, so I took the plunge.  It looks like a good quality machine for the price.  I think it is a rebadged Scheppach.  It was well equipped with a flexible work light and a blower to clear dust from the cutting area around the blade
There is a foot pedal with a proportional control for the cutting speed, which I would say is essential, as it is far too fierce on top speed for light work.  My only gripe is that blade fitting is a bit fiddly, and if you are cutting out the middles of formers for instance, then disconnecting one end of the blade is a frequent task.  I haven't used mine a great deal yet, so maybe there's a knack I haven't yet learnt.
If Lidl don't have them in, they often come up on Ebay and Facebook Marketplace.  Screwfix do a Scheppach one for £125.99, but it isn't clear if it has a foot pedal, although it does say variable speed.
Screwfix Scheppach Scroll Saw

[Keith Billinge]

I have a cheap Bandsaw and an even cheaper Scrollsaw. I find the scrollsaw doesn't get a look in, as I just automatically jump on the bandsaw for most jobs.
I have the Screwfix Scheppach Bandsaw. Not a bad tool.

KB

 

[Don Fry]

Ditto, blades cost but bandsaws are good tools. Scroll-saws also don’t cut frozen meat.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Although very fiddly taking the blades in and out that needs a torch, glasses and patience, it's a must-have tool especially for servo tray cutting,

and if like me my model bench is all cluttered up, it remains the only place in my workshop that I can put my soldering iron on and do some soldering.

[Ace]

Initially I bought a scroll saw but once I bought my bandsaw I have never turned it back on once. (Expensive soldering station Paul). As the table tilts I also successfully cuts strip, triangle and trailing edge. For servo trays or other central cuts I inverted a Jigsaw so just pop one hole and work around, no need to keep removing scroll saw blades.  

Edited May 31, 2023 by Ace