Graham Bowers Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, Cuban8 said: I know that a lot of people don't bother, but if it was my model, I'd lock off the metal clevises to the push rods with M2 nuts - saves the threads wearing with engine vibration - never seen one fail, but just seems to be good practice to me. Also, a drop of Loctite on the grub screws on the connectors (linkage stoppers) at the servo end wouldn't go amiss when all done and nipped up tight. All looking very good...... Another advocate of M2 locknuts against the clevises. If the thread fit is a bit loose it can be the source of slack in the system, as the clevis and pushrod don't make a straight line - hope that makes sense. Also, I put a flat on the pushrod under the grubscrew, so the grubscrew is in contact with a surface, rather than a line - which can deform and lose screw tension. I then put blue loctite on the grubscrew, and a bit of por on the pushrod to limit movement if all else fails. Belt, braces and a piece of baling twine, I know. However I only want to see one model lost due to pushrod failure. Edited July 14, 2023 by Graham Bowers 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 1 hour ago, Graham Bowers said: only want to see one model lost due to pushrod failure. Better yet. Lose the grub screw widgets and use a decent connection, such as a z bend, in its place. The grub screw things are OK for throttle but even there i don't really like them. As ever, YMMV. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 OK chaps ...... in the shed ....just me and my mate ..... John Smith. I started by packing some of the items from my list for taking to site tomorrow whilst I remembered them. 😊 then I moved on and fitted the receiver battery switch ...... bigger than thehole left for the intended switch ..... which they didn't supply so I had to cut it bigger to fit. Apologies for the lack of images but I only took the following two as I was trying to speed things up a bit to get everything done that I had to ....... so ... the finished article. nice and neat. and the inside .... Then I moved onto the centering of the servos and fitting of the various horns ( I'll be taking spares with me tomorrow just in case I have selected the wrong ones ). and ... now ... I must get the engine mounted ..... apologies for not paying to much attention to the last couple of posts but I have to crack on. Hopefully once I get the engine mounted and call it a night ( fuel tank is for tomorrow morning ) I will get to look back through the posts and respond. many thanks toto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Loose the grub screw, or solder it. Connector of the devil. Or a z bend ( pliers to do it in one squeeze available). I know I go on, sorry, but, I’ve seen these things fail. Veil of tears. ”If it can fail, it will, but after takeoff, best not before the planned landing”. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Lewis 3 Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 2 minutes ago, Don Fry said: Loose the grub screw, or solder it. Connector of the devil. Totally agree 100%, I've seen a nice scale model go in when the grub screw lost grip on the elevator linkage and on one of my own planes a Sebart Angel I wondered why it was rolling slowly only to find after landing that one of the aileron#s had no control as the screw had lost grip on the rod. You simply would not see these on any expensive airframes and you would be a wise man to wonder why that is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Bowers Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 13 minutes ago, Philip Lewis 3 said: Totally agree 100%, I've seen a nice scale model go in when the grub screw lost grip on the elevator linkage and on one of my own planes a Sebart Angel I wondered why it was rolling slowly only to find after landing that one of the aileron#s had no control as the screw had lost grip on the rod. You simply would not see these on any expensive airframes and you would be a wise man to wonder why that is. Funnily enough, it's a Sebart Mythos I'm screwing together that has these - and I thought that was expensive ;-) Clevis and Z or 90 degree and keeper is my usual fare - perhaps I should stick to what has never failed me*. *The one that failed had a clevis at both ends and wasn't built my me, although it's failure was my responsibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Hear, hear! Quick link or Z bend is the way to go or if you want to be early posh a ball link. Those grub screw connectors always seem to wobble about putting slop in the system. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Gentlemen ........ I am convinced and I'll tell you why. I was bust drilling the engine mount ( in place ) to allow the engine to be installed ..... by the time I had finished ...... no less than 3 nuts from the servo linkages had shaken loose and fell off. So I will need to look at alternative methods ...... these are crap. Just to add insult to injury ..... Neither the model ..... nor the force 0.46 engine comes with the mounting screws. As luck would have it ...... I had M3 x 35mm machined screws ( Hex ) with plenty of nuts which I have doubled up. see below .... and again .... and underneath .... and the silencer added ..... and again ...... and more .... and one last picture for tonight ..... and there we have it. I will replace these nuts for tonight but need to think fast for a fix for tomorrow. toto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Last call from the shed for tonight. gutted ....... cant find any spare nuts for the servo terminations. managed to find one of the originals that fell to the floor ..... but can't find the other. Never mind ..... I have taken a couple of final shots of the bird with some wings ..... the nuts issue can wait until tomorrow. I am now shattered. time to chill out. and another ..... one last one ..... hope its been of interest. toto 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidan mcatamney Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Hi Toto, I've spent the last hour reading this thread and enjoyed it thoroughly. You've done a grand job with the Arising Star and it should make the ideal learning plane for you. I followed it step by step and you got great advice from all our fellow flyers. It took me back in time to be honest as I read it all to the month of May 1986 when I bought my very first plane. It was a Yamamoto 40 trainer powered with an OS 40 two stroke. The only difference being is that it was a kit and had to be built from scratch and then covered. No artf planes in the 1980s. The fuel that I used then was Model Technics Duraglow and the fuel that I use now is Optifuel 12. Anyway , your doing great with the assembly of the Arising Star. I have three Seagull planes, a Jumper 25, a Boomerang 46 and a Spacewalker 46 and I find them to be all very good flyers. Keep up the good work Toto and it won't be long until your taking off on the maiden flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 If you are going to use those grub screw servo connector blocks then fit them to the servo arms with nyloc (M2) nuts, or use threadlock on the plain nuts. Also I would replace your double M3 engine bolt nuts with washers and M3 nyloc nuts. As others have said ideally replace the grub screw servo connector blocks with clevis or ball joint connectors, but as you haven’t got threaded pushrods then you can solder ‘adapters’ to make screwed connectors viable. SLEC amongst others, sell the bits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDB Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Check for slop in the z bend in the throttle arm, if there is any you may want to consider a ball link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Wot Rons says, plus blue Threadlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Thanks chaps, I've just finished taking the rudder horn back off as I realised that I did not slide the keeper into place yo keep the clevis tightly on. I remembered at the last minute and sorted it. I am now .... absolutely .... going back indoors ..... I have had enough for one night. see you .... on the other side of the shed ...... sound like a Pink Floyd moment .....😄 cheers toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 Another option, and a good option in place of a z bend, is the swing keeper. Very easy to bend a 90 degree at a suitable length and clip the swing keeper on. Quick, simple and reliable. GDB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 PDB ..... I have ball links as well. ( somewhere ) I'll look into that tomorrow at some point. thanks for the heads up. Thanks John .... bye the way ..... images of the mutt have not been forgotten ..... they will be on their way ..... she likes the attention. toto 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Caveman ..... just caught your thread ..... I have seen these somewhere and may just be ideal. I'll look them up ..... Now ..... I'm off indoors so there may be a break in any further responses gimme a beer .....where is John Smith 😄 toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 44 minutes ago, aidan mcatamney said: No artf planes in the 1980s. Oh yes there was. 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Mmmmmm ..... is this pantomime season coming up per chance ..... oh yes it is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Well .... I've gave it my best shot at having as much ready for the club meet tommorow. The Fuel tank has not been tested which was a major item I wanted to have done. I am down a servo connection sceew and one servo horn screw which I managed to drip whilst centering a servo. I will have one last look on the shed floor tomorrow before setting off. Maybe someone will have a screw or two in their fopueld box. The model wont be flying anyway but nay still be fired up ..... more vibration. I have some thread lock in my field box and some C A so will go round all the screws etc and apply as necessary. I was looking for nylock nuts online before posting and the smallest I can find is M3. Does anyone know of any smaller sizes available ...... preferably in bulk. Cheers Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidan mcatamney Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 No Artfs planes where I lived in the 1980s. All 100 percent kit's in our club and surrounding areas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 11 minutes ago, toto said: ............................. I was looking for nylock nuts online before posting and the smallest I can find is M3. Does anyone know of any smaller sizes available ...... preferably in bulk. Cheers Toto Model Fixings have M2 and M2.5 Nyloc nuts and a lot more stuff as well. A site worth looking round and a good company to deal with. https://www.modelfixings.co.uk/nuts.htm#metric nyloc nuts Dick 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDB Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 (edited) 23 minutes ago, toto said: Well .... I've gave it my best shot at having as much ready for the club meet tommorow. The Fuel tank has not been tested which was a major item I wanted to have done. I am down a servo connection sceew and one servo horn screw which I managed to drip whilst centering a servo. I will have one last look on the shed floor tomorrow before setting off. Maybe someone will have a screw or two in their fopueld box. The model wont be flying anyway but nay still be fired up ..... more vibration. I have some thread lock in my field box and some C A so will go round all the screws etc and apply as necessary. I was looking for nylock nuts online before posting and the smallest I can find is M3. Does anyone know of any smaller sizes available ...... preferably in bulk. Cheers Toto https://www.modelfixings.co.uk/nuts.htm#nylock nuts IME a great supplier, good quality items with bit of a crap website. You can also get better quality wheel collets, washers and M3 nyloc nuts for your engine mounting and ball links. *** Dick beat me too it *** 😁 Edited July 14, 2023 by PDB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toto Posted July 14, 2023 Author Share Posted July 14, 2023 Thanks chaps ..... I'm off for a browse ..... Toto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted July 14, 2023 Share Posted July 14, 2023 13 minutes ago, aidan mcatamney said: No Artfs planes where I lived in the 1980s. All 100 percent kit's in our club and surrounding areas. You mustn't have lived in UK in the 1980s then ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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