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Hi all Ive been unable to fly my little carbon cub in the field over the way over summer. Hopefully they will turn it over soon and leave a flattish bit for me to operate from 🙂 Ive been busy since early this year scratch building this model ejection seat. I know its not an aircraft, but it could fit in one !!😜 So, who of you have a scale F-35 Lightning almost ready to go but needs an ejection seat 🤣 I dont know the scale, I just started making it and it came out at around 19 inches tall, its HUGE ! I made it with the help of Martin Baker who provided some images and other details. I built 2 and they have the other one, though its not as detailed as my one as I wanted to go to town on mine. Seat is completely scratch built from aluminium, brass and SS fittings, webbings and other materials. Hope you like it ( even if it isn't an RC aircraft ) Thanks for looking in. Carl

I'm staggered that herons and cats use Google Maps...

Ehh, no. Any self respecting burglar wouldn't jeopordise his/her professional reputation by buying a drone, they'd nick one.

Its this comment that makes me glad we dont have an abundance of firearms here in the UK. Had the angry chap had a real gun, and the drone operator been armed as well its very likely this stupid incident would have resulted in at least one fatality and possibly an open shootout in the street. As with that young girl shot earlier this week, its often bystanders that pay the price for these street fights so i am quite happy with things the way they are.

That is a beautiful work of craftsmanship, tis a thing of beauty!!! thanks for posting!

I think using a weapon, or even something which looks like one, to intimidate or threaten is also an offence. And lets all be honest, that looked pretty flippin realistic to me. I hope they throw the book at him frankly.

From the CPS website, specifically relating to firearms.... Section 19: it is an offence for a person to have with them in a public place without lawful authority or reasonable excuse a loaded shot gun, an air weapon (whether loaded or not), any other firearm (whether loaded or not) together with ammunition suitable for use in that firearm, or an imitation firearm. So, not seen as an over reaction by the law. In some cases, the law is an ass, but I don't believe it is in this case - it's not the wild west 🙂

Thanks for the comment, Phil! There was/is nothing fundamentally wrong with 459MHz. I've used it without issue for decades. The "Rolls-Royce" of UHF sets was probably the Cotswold system, which had an enviable reputation! My own design sold in numbers that exceeded my expectations, but I was never going to get rich from it! 😉 I still get asked to service systems from time to time, and usually, all that is needed is new batteries and maybe the pots cleaning! However, it was always going to be more expensive that 27 or 35 MHz gear, and once we got the 35 MHz allocation, the need for it died. Also, because 459MHz was/is unique to the UK, none of the major international manufacturers was interested. The Reftec was problematic by design. The whole point of UHF was to get away from the interference issue on 27MHz. The problem with the Reftec was that the receiver was a double superhet that used 27 MHz as the first IF frequency! This was compounded by putting the receiver in a plastic case! Whilst it wasn't susceptible to distant CBs, it most certainly WAS susceptible to the surrounding 27MHz model control transmitters when you were carrying the model out to the flight-line! Add to that poor quality soldering, and Reftec did a lot of damage to the reputation of UHF systems. After Reftec went bust, I managed to buy a set cheap from someone who bought up the remaining stock. I managed to get it working up to a point, but gave up after a component fell of the receiver board in flight! The model crashed into a bush, with minimal damage, but a clue as to the problem came when I shook the receiver, and it rattled! Re-soldering the errant component (and a few others!) restored operation, but I eventually sold it to someone who wanted it for a boat. There was less chance of it doing any damage there....! -- Pete

Totally agree with Mike! This Gipsy is really a trainer model plane disguised as a scale biplane..... My Seagull Models Gipsy Moth set up: Motor: OS 70 FS Surpass Propeller: 15 x 6" C. of G.: As per instructions Aileron: As per instructions plus 40% differential and -15% expo Elevator: As per instructions with -15% expo Rudder: As per instructions with -15% expo

If you are interested there is a detailed article on the Aurora Model Manufacturing Co of Calcutta. They formally took over production of all Mills engines, using the original tooling, as well manufacturing licenses for Allen Mercury diesels and the Taplin Twin.

Despite being a mainly scale warbird builder, I have had a hampering for a glider to have at the field for a while. I want to throw it up and just see how long I can keep it up (so to speak) and experience a form of flying that I am fairly unfamiliar with. I'd normally go for a plan and scratch build but to speed the process up a bit I decided to buy the Cambrian Elan 100 as I really like the look of it at George at 4 max has given me his usual excellent advice on a motor for getting it up to height so I can try and learn something about planned unpowered flight. I'm planning on this being a quick build (hopefully done in a couple of weeks) so I can get out and try it. As usual, any tips, ideas or corrections are always welcomed! Gary

Hello, I came across an old post in this forum with this beautiful vintage float plane - can someone tell me the name of the model and if there are kits available?

Good progress today, both wings made and joined, wing saddle required a small bit of surgery, next job will be to fit the motor and front of the nose, the fuselage can then be covered before the wing gets glued on and the tail/fin fitted. Could be finished bar the paint by the weekend, only thing standing in my way is an MOT on my car tomorrow, if it passes i can crack on, if not i will be up to my elbows in car grime.

Hmm. Left hand drive. Looks like a European model. (the other one probably was as well).

I’m not sure if they are the correct axles for that leg. Normally the portion that fits in the leg would not be threaded as the 2 grub screws in the bottom of the leg hold the axle in place. I would be inclined to use 4mm or 5mm HT bolts as per Geoff’s post above if you haven’t got any other suitable material.

I built a Precedent/SLEC Funfly some years ago and the design called for the tail plane to be on the bottom of the fuselage but regular practice was to move it above so that it was clear of the ground/grass. AFAIK moving it had no effect on the flying performance. I passed my 'A' with it anyway. Not sure where the current kits place it.

On smaller models I've often used 4mm or 5mm high tensile cap head allen bolts.

Work on modifying the engine box area is almost complete. First 20mm was cut back from the sides and the mount plate had a trapezium shaped cut out to accommodate the carb. The engine needs to be mounted on standoff’s to allow for the fuel intakes to the cylinders. Quite handy as fine adjustment can be made using washers of varying thicknesses. Large penny washers will prevent the wood compressing. The distance between the rocker covers and the cowl is still marginal and until further work is done I won’t be sure that I will be in the clear, so to speak. At worst a slight modification to the lower shaped formers could allow a little deformation of the cowl top to bottom to give a few more mm clearance. I doubt if it would be noticeable, especially as there is an exhaust outlet at the bottom rear of the cowl for the lower cylinders. This is where I shall be mounting the Pitts style muffler. Bottom view The hole in the side of the box is for a screwdriver to access the idle screw. Top view I have a fan to fit behind the spinner and from what I have gleaned this negates the use of a baffle plate around the cylinders. Indeed if tight baffles are fitted when using a fan it can cause a drop in rpm due to back pressure. With the extra volume of air to disperse I am hoping that the lower exhaust exit, side exhaust exits and the cooling doors should be sufficient. On addition the gap around the carb will allow heated air to pass through the fuselage and out through the tailwheel area.

Sheer brilliance

When I flew drones commercially it was always important to make sure that any neighbours were aware of what you were going to do, to such an extent that in some situations fliers were posted a couple of days beforehand. That is on top of notifying the local authorities of what was happening (especially if in built up areas such as town centres). All of course detailed in my statement of works docs. Not everyone did the same!

Possible 6 month sentence for carrying an airgun in a public place, up to 10 years inside for possession with intent to cause fear of violence.

Maybe it was one of these drones,,,😅 I used to sell 'airsoft' guns they are perfect replicas, what the hell was he doing running around the streets with it ?. I could tell you a story about a Gendarmerie where an airsoft Famas was swapped for a real one,,, but I won't.🥳

I'd say it's an over reaction to call a BB gun a "firearm"

Nothing critical aerodynamically, but it will almost certainly be uglier and easier to damage on landing…

Nattadon Common near Chagford on Dartmoor is abou an hour from South Molton through the lanes of mid Devon. Foreland point to the east of Lynmouth on the coast is about 45 mins away.

The Seagull "Gispy Moth" is definitely their best kept secret. I have over thirty models in my collection and this Moth is my favourite. I have a pre_Surpass OS 91FS in mine which suits the model to perfection. I usually fly at little more than one third throttle which gives scale like flight performance. C of G is 100mm back from the TOP wing LE at the centre section. I use large aileron and elevator throws and have mixed in a little rudder to help in turns. Landings are best landing on the main wheels adding a blip of throttle to lift the nose upon touchdown. This helps prevent any slight tendency to nose over. This Moth could easily be used to train new pilots. The stall is predictable and gentle. Buy and fly with confidence. It doesn't bite or drop out of the sky at slow speed. This model is a winner. Top job Seagull. Mike

There is a YouTuber Nick Chitty who flies up in devon somewhere, try and one-act him via his vlog

I ummed and awed about the All Moving Tailplane crank as it consists of 2 concentric tubes, the larger of which is epoxied to the bellcrank, and the other smaller one fits inside and is epoxied to the fin. The problem was, how to avoid contaminating one tube with glue from the other which would jam up the mechanism. So first of all I epoxied the larger tube to the bellcrank and ran a fillet round its circumference. I made sure that it was the right length to fit snugly between the ply walls inside the fin to avoid wobble. Next I cut the smaller tube with some overlap which can be trimmed off later with a dremmel and inserted it through the fin and the bellcrank in position making sure that the correct hole goes to the correct bits ie the back takes the other tailplane pivot wire. I then applied epoxy and moved the tube in and out to coat the inside of the hole in the fin. Not too many microballoons to the mix Smaller tube shown through the middle and out the other side ready for epoxy Again ready for glue

Aurora, probably the 2cc from your description.

My local tip allows me to pour it into the oil container they have.

In Cirencester yesterday. Read about it here.

This is what is left if the fuselage. Geoff. I could be interested, but it would have to be posted as I'm in Somerset. How much would you want for it? Kevin. I'll reply to your pm. But want to post the photos here to refer to.