cymaz Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Have you tried any gentle heating ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Sometimes what works is, whilst the puller is attached and applying pressure, a sharp tap on the thrust bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Guys, I have had it hotter than hell using a paint stripper gun and I've tried all the other stuff and more. My DIY hub puller just bends after cranking the thrust bolt to the max. I will have to find a way to reinforce it. A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Andy, I am no engine man but have you tried immersing the engine for several hours in glow fuel or any other solvent to soften the baked goo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 It does sound like you need more of a man of a puller, that and some heat with puller on. Ron's tap method also works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Never needed to strip a Laser but have done many others with the same problem. Often, a heat gun is not enough and they require rather more which means a blow torch. I do not possess a puller but a good smack on the prop nut(s) with a hammer usually does the trick as long as the prop driver is hot enough. Constant pressure from a puller is unlikely to be effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 You either need a beefier puller or a press. I use a press here as its the only chance i have on some of the older engines where the thing has been together for 20 years or whatever. Some of them take an astonishing amount of pressure to get them out. Heating it up wont really do much to help in this instance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Finally success, I ventured out to get the parts I needed to beef-up my puller and with the front housing back in the puller, with no heat this time, I cranked up the thrust bolt with as much force as I could muster and it finally came off with an explosive crack and the taper collet shot off like a bullet. I have measured up all the bearings and ordered a set of 3. Now to clean up all the gunk which has accumulated and been cooked on. The liner still looks in perfect condition which was a concern until it was apart. Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Well done. Cant beat a bit of beef. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul james 8 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 If using the puller often as not once you have a bit of tension wound on you can shift the offending part by giving the puller a sharp tap with a hammer. As for cleaning I always use boiling water and aerial biological washing powder, cleans them up a treat. Any light surface corrosion or tarnishing I get off with scotchbrite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Jon, I have now stripped the entire engine down but in the process of re-bedding in the valves I have discovered that both springs had broken about, 1 1/2 turns off the end of each, can I buy replacements direct from you, and it wouldn't hurt to have some split collets, I haven't lost one yet but there's always the risk when refitting them by hand. Thanks, Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Difficult to do at first but when messing around with those fiddly collets stick the whole thing (including your hands) inside a clear plastic bag and do the work in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 Andy, give me a call when you can and we can sort it out. Springs are readily available as are collets should you loose one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Ron, I tried that trick when I first de-coked a Laser but it just steamed up and I couldn't see anything. Jon, I'll call you tomorrow to arrange the parts I need. Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maurice Dyer Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Just a thought, I want to buy A LASER 70, but if I mount it upright, isnt the carb fuel inlet to high for the fuel level ? Conversely will it flood if I invert the engine, Its going in a Panic ?? Maurice Edited By Martin Harris on 19/12/2020 17:45:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Scott 2 Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 A common conundrum, easy answer side mount it. Tony Edited By Martin Harris on 19/12/2020 17:46:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Jon has often said that there's little or no problem lifting fuel - flooding from too high a tank is the real problem. Edited By Martin Harris on 19/12/2020 17:46:30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 I agree mostly, I think there's too much worry about tank position. It stems from old freeflight designs with much less sophisticated engines. On another forum there was some hysteria about getting it spot-on only to read on that it was for an aerobatic design where the fuel is all over the place during manoeuvres and especially when prop hanging. If on the ground, the fuel is leaking due to the tank being high just close the throttle until needed. If it's low an extended prime may be necessary. Edited By Martin Harris on 19/12/2020 17:46:52 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted December 19, 2020 Share Posted December 19, 2020 Copied from the Laser Development thread: Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 19/12/2020 16:26:25: Gents if we could keep this thread for the development stuff that would be great. We have the technical thread for these sorts of questions. The short answer is as Martin put it. Dragging fuel up hill is not such a problem, having it force fed is. If inverted keep the top of the tank in line with the carb. If the tank is too high fuel will drip and the engine will stop when inverted. Its not possible to tune this out, the tank placement needs to be correct for the engine to work. If upright, just dont put the tank higher than the carb and it will be fine. In the case of the panic its engine upright and modify the top deck a bit so the tank sits in the right line between the struts. Make a fairing, some guys have made it look like a dummy canopy, and you are good to go. Also, no, you cant use a pump, no, you cant use a cline regulator. These rarely give satisfactory results and are quite expensive. Moving the tank is free and you are fixing he actual problem rather than trying to bandage it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Barlow Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 I have what seems a silly question that may have been asked previously, can the carburettor and silencer be swapped around. Many Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Vincent, Definitely not without making a lot of modifications, the intake and the exhaust are fixed in the design, although I notice on the Vee twin engines the cylinders are mirror versions of each other. Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Posted by Vincent Barlow on 21/12/2020 21:10:11: I have what seems a silly question that may have been asked previously, can the carburettor and silencer be swapped around. Many Thanks Jon will probably chip in soon, but it maybe possible if you swap the cams over and adjust the valve timing accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Barlow Posted December 21, 2020 Share Posted December 21, 2020 Thanks Andy and Frank for the quick response, I will leave well alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Posted by Vincent Barlow on 21/12/2020 21:10:11: I have what seems a silly question that may have been asked previously, can the carburettor and silencer be swapped around. Many Thanks Physically yes, but the engine will only run backwards. Timing will also be wrong and the valves the wrong size.. So yea, not recommended Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vincent Barlow Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Thanks Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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