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Lightweight IC starter for "old" hands


Halsey
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It’s a shame if you don’t see what might be the answer to your problem - I dug out what’s left of my old hands free system earlier to photograph it. 
 

In case it’s of interest to anyone, this proved very effective - it mounted on tripod legs with a support frame to hold the model  ready for a simple push forward for instant action but would function equally well sitting high enough from the ground for your models. 

 

IMG_3009.thumb.jpeg.d050f056cef34d15e470db9f6eb50de7.jpeg

 

 

IMG_3010.thumb.jpeg.6974f6f12825ec667186bd6b93af64cc.jpeg
 

Detail of sliding tray mounted on drawer runners, return spring and contact breaker to energise the starter under pressure from the spinner. 

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14 minutes ago, john stones 1 - Moderator said:

 

Getting Arthritis in your hands could change that view.

Quite possibly. Although someone came over with a power boat with an SC91 he couldn't start. I found using a starter to get it going a fair struggle. 

Having small hands & a Sullivan on 24V was a challenge. I got it going for him, not sure the old leather boot lace would have managed to be honest.  

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One thing I've found over the years, is the more you use a starter on engines the more they become dependant on them to the point that in the end the only way they will start is with a starter..... I usually start my engines by hand as much as possible except for helicopters & stubborn 4 Strokes..... How i usually start engines, is prime them up with afew turns of the prop with my finger/thumb over the carb followed by 2-3 flicks , then with throttle at tick over, bounce the prop between the compression points as if I'm clicking my fingers and they usually start within a few bounces..... saves getting ur fingers whacked even with a chicken finger on

Edited by GaryW
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21 hours ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

It’s a shame if you don’t see what might be the answer to your problem - I dug out what’s left of my old hands free system earlier to photograph it. 
 

In case it’s of interest to anyone, this proved very effective - it mounted on tripod legs with a support frame to hold the model  ready for a simple push forward for instant action but would function equally well sitting high enough from the ground for your models. 

 

IMG_3009.thumb.jpeg.d050f056cef34d15e470db9f6eb50de7.jpeg

 

 

IMG_3010.thumb.jpeg.6974f6f12825ec667186bd6b93af64cc.jpeg
 

Detail of sliding tray mounted on drawer runners, return spring and contact breaker to energise the starter under pressure from the spinner. 

I like that. Really good thinking. Bas

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18 hours ago, GrumpyGnome said:

Wouldn't be allowed at my club - ic models must be restrained for starting....

Ida thunk that if you're holding the plane to push it against the starter, then you are restraining it!  Or does your Club insist that 'planes must be kept on a leash at all times'.  😁.

 

The JE-type geared starter is just fine and as the weather is so crepe, I'm going to pop out to the workshop and adapt mine for LiPo operation!

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3 hours ago, Mike T said:

Ida thunk that if you're holding the plane to push it against the starter, then you are restraining it!  Or does your Club insist that 'planes must be kept on a leash at all times'.  😁.

So, you hold the model in 2 hands, and push it against the device; engine starts; you are now holding it in 2 hands with a running engine. Where's the transmitter? Is it just dangling around ones neck the whole time? 

 

Or do you start it, then put it on the ground, retrained, while you pick up the transmitter?

 

(Gosh, I'm living up to my moniker!  It looks a useful solution provided proper care is taken....) 

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Various ways round it. My own technique (for its specialised use) was to leave the transmitter on the ground to the left of the starter, run to the model from the scramble, push it into the cone, pick it up by the fuselage, flick off the glow with my left hand on the way to grabbing the tranny, whack the throttle open, step forward to the line and lob it underarm. All done from the far safer position of being behind the propeller. 

Neckstrap? Work of the devil and responsible for countless injuries and incidents. 
 

More typically, a model with an undercarriage withdrawn a few inches shouldn’t go anywhere at tickover and would stop if it moved forwards into the pretty resilient starter box.  So it’s effectively restrained from going anywhere.  There would be nothing stopping you from withdrawing it to a conventional restraint either.
 

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Another vote here for the Just Engines geared starter.

It is quite small and light, plus the trigger light too.

It can be run on a 3 or 4 cell lipo which makes the whole right even lighter (note need for a hefty battery).

As for its power, it will easily out-perform a heavy Sullivan-type starter.

Mine will happily turn an 80cc engine with surprising enthusiasm.  

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On 24/02/2024 at 00:07, Richard Wills 2 said:

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4952

 

I use one of these now, has a 3s 2200 internally.  Starts everything including my Moki 210 glow.  Starting planes sits nicely in the hand and little finger sits on the switch.

 

 

 

Highly recommend, been using this for almost a decade now. Light weight for single hand operation. Has on board battery level indicator, starts up to 50cc petrol engines. 

If I were to criticise, the only point would be the internal battery connection. 

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On 25/02/2024 at 03:46, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

It’s a shame if you don’t see what might be the answer to your problem - I dug out what’s left of my old hands free system earlier to photograph it. 
 

In case it’s of interest to anyone, this proved very effective - it mounted on tripod legs with a support frame to hold the model  ready for a simple push forward for instant action but would function equally well sitting high enough from the ground for your models. 

 

IMG_3009.thumb.jpeg.d050f056cef34d15e470db9f6eb50de7.jpeg

 

 

IMG_3010.thumb.jpeg.6974f6f12825ec667186bd6b93af64cc.jpeg
 

Detail of sliding tray mounted on drawer runners, return spring and contact breaker to energise the starter under pressure from the spinner. 

Actually, that's just like what the serious Free Flight F1C flyers have been using for over a decade.

 

Incoming thermal detected, glow on, push, disconnect glow and launch. Quite handy for use with folding props on a screaming .15 doing 20K+ RPM
🙃

 

* Chris *

 

 

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On 01/03/2024 at 11:16, Halsey said:

Old Sullivan now sold so new JE (the smaller version) now ordered

 

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

J

 

New JE starter arrived and VERY pleased - just the job ergonomically much better than the Sullivan for my hands and a nice light touch switch - thanks to all (incl Just Engines) for your help

 

J

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