Basil Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I am a returnee from wayback and are reassebling a 'Tool kit' Can any body make some reccomendations about balde number selection please. I am using No 11 but they seem a bit small, they cut very well though. I suppose its about what you are trying to achieve. Thank you in advance Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I use 10A blades for everything. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Posted by Geoff S on 20/07/2020 11:10:12: I use 10A blades for everything. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 + one more for 10A blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Use 10A and shop around as the price varies a lot. Get the Retractaway handle ( for 10A etc) as it's safer but just as rigid yet very little dearer. Again price varies a lot. Local art shops sell 10A and Retractaway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Cottrell 2 Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Hi Basil I use no11 blades for intricate work, but I also have no 23 and no 26 for for the heavier stuff. Could I suggest buying these in bulk. Nothing worse than trying to use a blade past its best, through not having a new one to hand. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I find the 10A too thick, they can split the wood, I also find the thin, straight, No.11 useful for everything, especially covering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 I use No. 11 blades for everything that doesn't need a saw or a "Stanley Knife". Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 10A and 11 in the no.3 handle and 26 in the (larger) no.4. I like the larger series blades, though the mounting slot is a weak point. Has anyone tried their craft blades? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 Another #10A user here, buy them by the box of 100 blades. I have a few packs of #11 and #26 and a selection of handles, but the #10A works for me as the default blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 Thank you one and all for your advise, 10A & 11 seem to win out. I am using 11 so will get some 10A .many thanks Barry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 I seem to be different. I use a number 4 handle (primarily) with blades which have the number 26 stamped on the packet. I expect that I am not alone in using a couple of Stanley knives, In addition i also use a snap of blade type. Both for heavier materials. All my blades are of the straight edged pointed types. I am surprised I appear to be different in this matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronaldo Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 I use Swan Morton ACM Numbers 2, and 11. Cheaper in bulk from here, plus other blades and handles are available **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Posted by Erfolg on 21/07/2020 20:49:08: I seem to be different. Really? A few of us have mentioned using a no.26... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Greetings from the 26 blade man. Plus 3 handles - as I never find these little knives. Need to paint them in some fancy colours. Hi-vis orange or so. VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Mike T, sorry I missed your reference to No.26 and that of Leccyflyer. Gerhard, it is a pleasant surprise that you are back, on the site. I guess you have been to busy, with work, and so on. I concur with the observation that buying a box is the most practical and economical way to purchase the blades. My box was purchased some years ago now, I still have possibly half the packets left. No running out due to breakage or dulled blade at the most inconvenient time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Yes, box is best. You avoid the temptation to 'soldier on' with a sub-par blade. Like Erfolg I bought a 100 box about 10 years ago and am now down to my last few packets. I still use the blunted blades e.g. for sharpening brass tube or scraping the edges of props while balancing. Pristine blades are for balsa work (Stanley or snap-offs for ply) and film trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 10A, 11, 24 and 26 are my weapons of choice though 11 most used by far. Buy in bulk as others have said, much more cost effective. another for Scalpelsandblades.co.uk Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Nowt wrong with a well sharpened carving knife Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted July 22, 2020 Share Posted July 22, 2020 Posted by Erfolg on 22/07/2020 12:05:05: Mike T, sorry I missed your reference to No.26 and that of Leccyflyer. Gerhard, it is a pleasant surprise that you are back, on the site. I guess you have been to busy, with work, and so on. I concur with the observation that buying a box is the most practical and economical way to purchase the blades. My box was purchased some years ago now, I still have possibly half the packets left. No running out due to breakage or dulled blade at the most inconvenient time. I'm on the last few packets of blades that were shall we say 'liberated' from a firm that I worked at for a while. The owners sold the business and were OK with us taking useful odds and ends along as you didn't take the you know what. Haven't bought an X-acto or Swann-Morton blade in thirty years, except for razor saws. Probably another year's worth left and then will have to pay up. I have an old leather belt that I strop the blades with - does get the edge back for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor Chinnery Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 I think the blades that "split" balsa were probably craft/hobby blades as opposed to surgical, the craft ( X-acto?) or the like are thicker and not as flexible as the Swann Moreton surgical blades we ( well I do anyway! ) use these days. The Swann Moreton blades are designed for cutting skin, muscle etc. etc. and not re-used, however we all know some surgical blades are stronger and/or keep their edges sharper and for longer than others. My own preferences is the 11 on the long thin No.7 handle which being long and thin allows it to be held like a biro so is perfect for detail work ( the blade is also extraordinarily strong and keeps sharp for longer than you would expect ), though some folk prefer a No.3 handle. For general balsa cutting I would use a 22 on a 4 handle ( don't ask ). One final point ( literally ) at work everyone was taught that an 11 blade on a handle was the most dangerous piece of equipment on the premises, if it fell vertically there was a strong possibility that it would go straight through any shoe leather in its path and deep into the foot inside! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 10a for rip cut, 10 for cross cut - so much kinder to the fibres of the balsa and stops them "bunching up" or splitting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Cottrell 2 Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Hi Basil In addition to the blades already mentioned, could I recommend you add a razor saw to your toolkit. So much better for cross-grain cuts, especially in thicker materials. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Cottrell 2 Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Hi Basil, quick word of warning Decided to give those 10A blades a try, but because my no3 handle has a no 11 blade in it, treated myself to a new handle. Made the mistake of ordering a generic one rather than genuine Swan Morton. That came this morning, and it's truly awful. Blade has to be forced in with a pair of pliers, and even then will not go in far enough to positively lock on the retainer. Consequences of a blade sliding out while in use are not to be contemplated, from the safety point alone. Needless to say, that one is going in the garbage, and a genuine SM one on order. Might cost a few bob more, but worth it imho. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.