Wood Glue......Which do you prefer?

[dave parnham]

As in the title Forumites........I have just finished my large bottle of TiteBond II  and have been very happy with the results, but its yellowish in Colour and although can be cleaned up with water, it still stains.

Anybody who builds Largeish scale planes got any preference towards a wood glue?

 

I hate using Superglue unless I really have to as that and the accelerant Stinks and gives me headaches.

Not sure i really appreciate what aliphatic is or does may have to do more research.

Thanks for looking.

[Richard Wills 2]

Titebond II is an an aliphatic resin I think.  

[Cuban8]

I've always had excellent results with good old Evo Stick wood glue (used to be called Resin W IIRC). Never had a problem with it and it sticks like the proverbial with a fast grab time. Joints are far stronger than the surrounding wood.

People do say it's not easy to sand away excess, but I just wipe off any overspill before it sets. Fairly inexpensive and available just about everywhere. Beware cheap alternatives, they are without a doubt, inferior.

Edited January 17, 2023 by Cuban8

[dave parnham]

Super Phatic Aliphatic glue is a fast-drying glue for woodworking and other projects and is known as carpenter’s glue and yellow glue.

Googling brings up this so i guess Titebond is a contender and im happy with the results so far......just not great in a cold shed or in really Hot temperatures either.

Edited January 17, 2023 by dave parnham

[leccyflyer]

Deluxe Materials Superphatic is my preference, and is a very usable alternative to CA for balsa construction - the way I use it is to allow the glue to wick into the joint, which it does very effectively as it is so thin. It does stain the wood though, so if that is important to you it could be an issue.

 

I'd also make a distinction between Super Phatic and other aliphatic glues such as Titebond, which I haven't personally used in anger but which appears, to me, to be thicker, more like SpeedBond PVA in consistency and you would add the glue to the wood before mating the joint surfaces, rather than wicking into the dry assembled joint.

[J D 8]

 Evo Stick interior wood glue from Jewson in the green bottle for me, dry's clear.

[John Lee]

Tried many others but it's Titebond Original Woodglue every time for me now. The manufacturers describe it as an 'Aliphatic resin emulsion'. Yes, it does dry yellow but I don't find that an issue. It's either hidden under paint or not detectable behind transparent yellow covering!

 

 

 

[Robert Cracknell]

I find aliphatic sands better than pva....!

[David Hazell 1]

3 minutes ago, John Lee said:

Tried many others but it's Titebond Original Woodglue every time for me now. The manufacturers describe it as an 'Aliphatic resin emulsion'. Yes, it does dry yellow but I don't find that an issue. It's either hidden under paint or not detectable behind transparent yellow covering!

 

 

 

Beautiful workmanship, whichever glue you're using!! 

[Cuban8]

I think that you've just got to go with what works for you. Providing that a quality product is used, then PVA, Aliphatic, CA or whatever all have their plus points for the individual.

[kc]

See the DeLuxe Materials website for a video on SuperPhatic.     But it's quite differnt to Aliphatic and more a water based thin glue instead of cyano.

 

DeLuxe do their aliphatic and recently I have just tried Balsa Cabin's own cheaper aliphatic which seems good. 

 

With all glues do a test on scrap wood and test to destruction before using it on a model with many hours of work!

 

Cheap PVA will fail but with Evostik Wood Glue it is the wood grain that fails before the glue - even on hardwood like beech.    Shop around for Evostik as the price varies enormously from high street to Toolstation & Screwfix

[dave parnham]

So looking at Deluxe materials website ive used The green bottle of Genuine Aliphatic and just didn't get on with it, took ages to set or fell apart soon after.

The Super phatic looks like a Super Glue alternative? looks clear in the pics. So not a fan.

 

I do have a new bottle of Evo stick as i couldnt locally source the TiteBond II so may build something with that and experiment.

[Outrunner]

I use Deluxe Materials aliphatic resin, very fast grab time and makes a really strong joint. Off white/yellow colour, similar to wood colour can't see it even when model is covered in transparent film. The only time it's noticeable is if you put gobs of it on and not wiped the excess off. I only use cyano when I have too as I usually stick my fingers together, get runny eyes and sometimes times cold like symptoms so I avoid it when I can.

[Chris Selvey-WIllars]

I'm a cyano man myself. Zap thin mostly. I also use medium cyano from the builders merchants (as I am a builder). If I use a wood glue it's the evo stick blue as that is more water resistant.  Never had a model fall apart from a failed glue joint with that. Many have fallen apart due to an additional gust of gravity......

[Andy Meade]

Titebond original here too.

 

[Christopher Wolfe]

I have used his product Weldbond for many years here in Oz.

 

It works very well and unlike cyano, the joints are flexible, re-gluable and not brittle.

 

Like many aliphatic and PVA based glues (and traditional balsa cement) the joints appear to gain strength with pre-glueing as was published over 70 years ago.

 

Check out this link for March/April 1947 Aeromodeller magazine for useful info on glued and scarf joints ((and enjoy the rest of the magazine) Aeromodeller Magazine March/April 1947

 

chris

[Ace]

👍  - page 253

[Bruce Collinson]

Super Phatic is good for improving suspect glued joints in ARTFs as it runs and wicks better than Aliphatic.   Seems to behave a bit like medium cyano but perhaps less brittle.   +1 for Titebond.

BTC

[leccyflyer]

That's a good tip Bruce and something I routinely use SuperPhatic for - adding some glue to ARTF internal joints. As it's thin and runny, you can run a few drops down a length of piano wire and position the glue right where you want to, deep in the recesses of a covered fuselage. Gives a bit of peace of mind, wicking into the joint and adds minimal weight.

 

I've never tried Titebond, but based on the glowing reviews here will have to give it a go.

[Erfolg]

I use 502, which I can buy from "Toolstation" and "Screwfix". It works, it is cheap, the only significant issue is that it has a shelf life, of about 1 year, the blurb draws your attention to it.

 

As for the carpenters glues, not easy to buy, in this neck of the woods. 

[Bruce Collinson]

Or the cutoff from a threaded pushrod, if you’re in Yorkshire.   I tend to keep anything over about 5” long for those odd jobs.   Shorter bits go in the bin.

 

I like Titebond, saw it in Mortens in Ilkley and it winked.   Seems very good for where we would have used plain pva, as some evidently still do.   Quite good natured, dries fairly fast and gives every impression that the timber will fail before the glue.   The only gripe I have is that the cap is very tight fitting.   It compliments runny Super Phatic well and I use a lot less cyano as a result.   I bet that nice Mr. Bezos sells it and will deliver next day foc if you forget to cancel Prime (see posts passim).

BTC

[John Muir]

Agree re the Titebond bottle cap. Always sticks shut, no matter how much I wipe it down. And it's a slot at the top instead of a hole so it isn't easy to apply neatly straight from the bottle. Just spent a happy five minutes decanting some into a cheap squeezable plastic bottle with a simple spout top I bought online.

 

I looked this stuff up a while back. Aliphatic glue is PVA with the addition of aliphatic (a reference to some sort of open chain molecule) modifiers to make it grab better, dry faster and be easier to sand (it is more heat resistant so it doesn't form rubbery bits when it gets hot from sanding). It got it's name because the guy who first sold it liked the word 'aliphatic' when the chemist told him what was in it so he stuck it on the label. The yellow colour is a dye used to make it look different to PVA. You can, apparently, get white aliphatic and somebody made a dark brown one once. Titebond 2 is a next generation PVA with cross linked molecules that make it water resistant. I had time on my hands that day.

[PeterF]

I glued the wings on my quarter scale Tiger Moth using Deluxe Materials superphatic. The ribs were a close fit on the spars, leading edges and trailing edges. Dry assembled the whole wing over the plan and then wicked the glue into each joint using a large diameter hypodermic needle on the bottle. I have been flying the model for 5 years and the wings are still solid. The rest was built predominantly with Deluxe Materials speedbond PVA with the odd bit of cyano.

 

[Nigel R]

Can you ventilate your workshop?

 

I use CA most everywhere. Usually the thinnest stuff. It is far stronger than balsa. 

 

I do use pva for hardwood joints. CA doesn't penetrate before it sets. 

 

Also use contact adhesive for sheeting wings. 

Edited January 19, 2023 by Nigel R

[dave parnham]

12 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

I bet that nice Mr. Bezos sells it and will deliver next day foc if you forget to cancel Prime (see posts passim).

BTC

Just ordered some Titebond II thinking it was at least coming from the uk somewhere (cannot find any in shops strangely) And its coming from Holland !!