Ron Gray Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 A forum member suggested that I put my video on covering using brown paper under a separate topic as he couldn’t find it on my YouTube channel, so here it is. This would also be a great place to submit all of your tips when using this covering material. Plus here are the ones specifically related to the WR FW190 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Colbourne Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Thank you for posting these videos Ron, its a topic in which I am very interested. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 1 hour ago, Robin Colbourne said: Thank you for posting these videos Ron, its a topic in which I am very interested. Yes thanks Ron. Bas 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john davidson 1 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Thanks Ron. Just wondering if this could be adapted to depron? Balsa veneer is stuck to foam cores with PVA , or perhaps use water based varnish . I do use vinyl from the local sign shop which makes the wing almost bomb proof but brown paper would be cheaper and also sandable and would take emulsion . Worth a try any way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (edited) Hi Ron . The last model I covered in brown paper was a DB Hurticane I built for a friend. I found that the brown parcel paper sold at the Post office that had a sort grain along it was very good . I used to paste it with slightly dilute PVA and let it soak like wall paper. It would then take a compound curve very well . Balsa sheet was given a couple of coats of thinned dope to A raise the grain and B seal it slightly. It dried very strong . One thing I found was NOT to use cheap PVA like n* n***ense type home brands. Its good to keep these skills and tips alive . Well done Ron. Edited March 19 by Engine Doctor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lipo Man Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 37 minutes ago, john davidson 1 said: Thanks Ron. Just wondering if this could be adapted to depron? Balsa veneer is stuck to foam cores with PVA , or perhaps use water based varnish . I do use vinyl from the local sign shop which makes the wing almost bomb proof but brown paper would be cheaper and also sandable and would take emulsion . Worth a try any way Here is my simple EDF design. It’s made of domestic insulation foam from B&Q (therefore very similar to depron, I think) and it’s covered with brown paper then painted. I did it as an experiment, but it worked pretty well. I didn’t use heat to activate the PVA - it just air-dried. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris collis Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 My last two Lancasters were covered with brown parcel paper applied onto the veneer with slightly watered down Pva .Then a thin coating to the paper and slowly laid onto the airframe,gently pressing out any air bubbles.Very strong when dry and any overlaps can be lightly sanded. The paint was applied thinly for the first coat and then thicker for the second and third coats. I found it was a good cheap way for covering large models. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Hearnden 1 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Years ago I used to cut my own cores. For smaller stuff used brown paper & paper based (not mylar) gift wrapping paper. The latter is what Mick Reeves used on his Disco. Water based PVA worked well & overlaps can be sanded to feather. On small (36") span bare foam cores it works well. I used tissue soaked in PVA as wing joiners for these as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Nothing new, over here they have been using it for over 30 years and still do, I think that they use watered down white glue to put it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 @Paul De TourtoulonNobody is saying that it's new Paul but a lot of people haven't seen it before so that is why I created this topic hoping that members would add useful comments! To the rest - keep the tips coming through guys, it's turning into a useful 'Wiki' type thread. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Cooper Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Brown paper works well as a covering material. It is brilliant for strengthening foam cores. . . I use wallpaper paste on mine. When covering foam, be aware that if using any adhesive with water in it, there will be shrinkage so apply to all sides at the same time or there will be warping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) On scale models , panel lines can be created by simply cutting the brown paper to the size of the panel and glueing over a base covering. The overlap edge simulates panels very realistically. I used this on the frontvof the Hurricane fuz. The stringered part was first covered in tex then thebrown paper overlapped by an inch . Scale panels were then glued on top of the base paper layer. Extrat weight ? In the case of the DB Hurricane the nose needs all the help it can get to balance the tail section. When dried i sealed the surface with a coat of non shrinking dope followed by a light sand . Rivets applied by using thick cyano through a pipette tip guided by a ruler or light pencil line. Then painted using whaterver paint suits . Very realistic ,cheap ,strong and easy to clean up. Glass epoxy is good but expensive ,more difficilt to clean up and no quicker plus temperature has to be kept warm to assure a cure. Many american kits supplied foam blanks with thick brown paper/card for covering . I used to discard the card and use balsa but after using brown paper im rwally ompressed. Ron it may be obvious to us but for begginers it is important to stress that brown paper is only siutable for covering sheeted areas. I have in the past seen attempts from newcomers and not so newcomers to cover open structure 😶 . It doesnt work. Edited March 20 by Engine Doctor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Futura57 Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) I have to agree that brown paper is a great covering material. I've known about it for donkey's years but never seriously considered using it until recently. Since I started using depon and similar foam sheet material for building models, I have found brown paper to be something of a revelation. It works out a few pennies per metre and is readily available. A bit like applying very thick tissue. I use Titebond wood adhesive because it sands really well. Some PVA glues stay rubbery when dry. It is a lighter and significantly cheaper alternative to skinning a foam surface with balsa. And is surprisingly strong. For open structures I am happy using 38 micro matt laminating film. Edited March 20 by Futura57 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 4 hours ago, Engine Doctor said: it is important to stress that brown paper is only siutable for covering sheeted areas. Good point ED! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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