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As the weather has finally perked up , Ive been nipping out to do some flying . There is a fair gaggle of Fw190s buzzing about , so I dont feel quite so precious about the prototype . I didnt really get why everyone was raving about it so much , as I 'd only had two shakedown flights in the winter , to make sure it had a gentle stall and generally good handling. It was based on a previous 190 so not far from the beaten track . Having now flown it to the max in everyway on a sunny day with light to no wind conditions , I can honestly say it is one of the easiest warbirds you could fly . It literally flies like a Gangster 63 for those old enough to remember . The objective was an easy to build , no fuss warbird and in this instance , thats what we have . The Tempest has had a few shake down flights in bad weather and seems very similar . Interesting to compare the figures for the pair . The Fw190 has a span of 52" weighs 4lb 10oz with a 4s 3300pack , making the wing loading 24.42oz/sq ft . The Tempest has a span of 55" weighs 5lb 5oz with a 4s 3300 pack making the wing loading 23oz /sq ft . Both are now equipped with retracts (somebody had to test them ) . I would guess that retracts add around 7oz, which is included above . So your wing loading would be around 22oz/sq ft , which is very low . That wing loading is much more what you would expect from a low wing sport model than a warbird , so we have done well . The wing sections are very friendly too , so with even more weight , I dont think there would be a problem . The 190 is exceptional in its handling and I dont think the Tempest will be far behind . The cranked wing may make the rolls less axial but there again its shape in the air is more dramatic , so there must be a compromise .

All things being well I will start another build vlog next week!

Two planes got flown for the first time today, plan built GeeBee Model E converted to electric on an E-Flite 60 and 6s lipo and my second Flair DR1, this one has an OS120 4 stroke fitted. Today was one of those top flying days, sunny, warm and close to no wind topped by being lucky enough to own and fly these lovely scale models. 😁

If anyone is really itching to get on with their build but are not quite sure due to the (intentional) lack of instructions, why not hang fire for a few days and wait for Eric and me to get cracking as we can make the mistakes before you do!

Leprechaun day yesterday. Almost dead calm which helps. It’s always enjoyable although I can never decide what this model is - soarer, sportster, vintage looker, or a bit of each - but it caught a few upward draughts after a motor burst and stayed up for nearly 10 mins. Anyone got one? What do you do with yours?

Lovely day to be out. Unusually there wasn't a breath of wind down the old runway. My windsock is static unlike yours LF!. When there was any wind it was barely 2 mph as a crosswind ESE so even I can handle that one! 😊 I had a very successful session still adjusting the Capiche by degrees ........ almost there now - even the pilot complained of a hot backside so off came the canopy straight away.! Aaaah ....... Happy days ✈️ 👍

I reckon I and others, have edited and closed way too many threads because some can't control themselves, here we are yet again. Andy appears to have his questions answered, so with apologies to Andy, thread closed.

Braw morning up here 20 degrees by mid morning, fluffy clouds, blue skies, but a variable, sometimes blustery crosswind. It was beautiful at 5:30, with a perfect mackerel sky, and not a breath of wind, but the wind had got up by 10:30-ish when I got to the field. Managed to fit in a few hours of pleasant low key flying and blethering, but with that crosswind it wasn't the morning for a maiden of my replacement PZ FW190, that will wait for another day. Great fun with the SU-27 prop-in-a-slot Flanker just hovering and making high alpha descents into wind, plus beating up the strip with my venerable PZ Spitfire. An unexpected bonus today, as the forecast was for much stronger winds than that and I couldn't fit in a trip to the slope.

Waiting for 30 amp esc getting delivered, construction is done,it's a bit tight in the bay for the radio gear etc(I use Hitec)...,then balance and off he go's....his marra in the background.. Ken Anderson....me...1 ...Shifty dept.

The old driving instructor saying is never teach members of your close family and sons in particular. If a formal instructor tells him he has to do something in a particular way he will believe it. When you say the same thing it runs the risk of being treated as just "Dad's opinion".

Building biplane wings is like deja vu.

Just back from BMRC site...two days in a row I hear think....Vera and her crew are down our sea front doing some filming for her last two episodes.. Ken Anderson...ne...1....Vera dept/Pet.

Mine arrived just now, two hours later than the expected delivery time shown on the tracker. But after yesterday's performance, I'm counting that as a win! Looks great as normal, glueing starts tomorrow!

You'd need pretty bad eyesight to confuse an Osprey and a Hercybird... 🙂

Hi ,some thoughts to consider . I am very much like your beginner and have been for over20years. Landings and take off,s are my big problems . Why ? Too much to concentrate at the same time ,angle of landing ,speed ,aileron and rudder control spatial awareness etc To me it is not like riding a bike and I basically have to learn to fly all over again every year .I,m no good in cold weather and hay fever affects me in the summer so my flying season is quite short . Now you could say that I have useless coordination skills and to an extent that is true however I have and still am a competent drummer and percussionist where you need to coordinate four separate limbs as well as observing other band members, conductors and even perhaps singing on occasions .So I believe I am capable of quite a high level of coordination .So what is going on When learning to play a drum kit and practice drum patterns and rudiments you are taught to do everything very very slowly repeat and repeat and gradually build up speed .This develops what I believe is termed a Kinethetic sense and you can then do it automatically ,like riding a bike or changing gears in a car . So the key is slow and repetition .However this is difficult to achieve up the flying field with a beginner .The speed the wind and all the rest that need concentrating on are nearly all varying and perhaps there may be only the opportunity to have say four flights per session . I would suggest a simulator would be beneficial to this beginner to help with repetition and the other factors that can be tailored in. I,m extremely grateful for the patience of many up my club ,South Wales Valleys Flyers ,for putting up with me for over 20years. I realise I,ll never be much of a flyer but I enjoy the social aspect and the building side of the hobby .I.m now in the middle of building a one fifth scale VANS RV4 for one of the club members . By the way I have directional dyslexia ,I.e left and right mean nothing to me. Do not ask how I passed my driving test ! Hope you found this interesting You may have to bite the bullet and inform the beginner that he or she may never fly solo .I hope this will not be the case.

As I know that all the forum readers are waiting with bated breath to find out if the Rex 1a motorised glider actually flies, I can report that it does and very well indeed! The weather has suddenly looked up here in Lancashire so I have had the pleasure of two sessions with the Rex, no other glider fliers in my club so I felt a bit of a loner, tested it on a hand launch a couple of times just to make sue that it even had a glide no problems there, deep breath and first powered flight, the prop promptly flew off! I had forgotten tighten it properly, prop fell to he ground and Rex went off on a long glide and landed in the long grass, no problems reattached he prop, whilst refitting the prop a couple of members asked if I had a problem as it seemed that there was a lack of power, no I said , it was an unpowered test hand launch! Prop back on and off the Rex went no shortage of oompf in fact no need for more than half throttle to ensure a steady climb, my guesstimate of 3 degrees of down thru thrust appear to be about right. It climbed to nice high altitude very steady, cut the motor and straight into a thermal it would have stayed up for an age if I had let it, landing not so easy as it did not want to come down, the glide on approach goes on for ever, no spoilers....... but reapply the moto rand go around on a low circuit and a nice greasy landing on our lovely freshly mown and rolled patch.. To say I am delighted is an understatement.

Hello Jim Spinner(s) received in post 😀. Very generous. I owe you one. Donation to charity made. Thanks Mike

Just looked on RC Japan and Enya 90 valve springs cost 79p each ! The Uk has a free trade agreement with Japan so no import duties . The last spares I bought ftom them for OS cost just over £100 delivered and would have cost me over £300 from UK supplier ; plus arrived withib a week . British supplier was talking up to 5 months !!

Had a quick rummage through the Tempest kit that arrived today (wife was out!) A very complete kit, super laser cutting, nicely drawn plan and I wish I could cut cores like that. Start next week and attempt to keep up with Ron. Well, it is good to have ambition at any rate!

That is my intention!!! 🤣

First off, check his eyes. Might be a bit of correction needed. Until you know his complaint, that he can’t correct, and then apply corrections is false, accept it’s a fact. Children ( I was one) can go a long time with sub optimal vision, and learn coping mechanisms. 50 years later, with perfect corrected vision, I still look for stuff by colour, not the article I’m looking for.

I have been teaching kids to fly for the last 50+years. They all learn at different rates, and they all develop different levels of skill. Without meeting the child, it will be impossible to suggest a course of action to boost his confidence. However, making the learning process fun - plus lots of praise - usually helps with making progress. Which area are you in?

Keith B did you see the reviews that said that paper smells a lot ? Somebody said like kippers! Maybe your wife would not let in the house! See you at the flying field over the weekend I hope.

The Magnatilla plan is available again on EBay so for the sake of a tenner, I’ve ordered a copy. Alongside my mk2 puppeteer plans, I ought to be able to put something together, particularly if I can buy a ready cut rib set. At the same time, Four strokes in the 48/52ish range seem to crop up quite frequently and are a notable margin less expensive that larger engines so it’s probably a good plane & motor combination to start with. Building a Magnatilla wing would also give me some useful experience for when I get round to building the Puppeteer.

She would as well....22c earlier. Ken Anderson....ne...1...22c dept...like.

Indeed - just as you would to not be able to tell whether an aircraft had props or rotors.

They havent got wheel doors , so Its a bit like a lady with no skirt ! Im on Holiday for two weeks on Monday so Ron and Eric will be advising. When I get back , I will fit doors and I expect Paul Johnson will be getting ready to send out retract packs. Anyone wanting the packs could contact him direct with a pm . My thoughts on the retracts are this : How good is your runway ? If its a good flat , well cut grass strip or concrete then a lot of satisfaction can be had by doing a smooth landing . The 190 I was flying yesterday comes in as smooth as silk , but even or long runway has a spring wave effect until its rollered . That means you can come in beautifully , skimming the tops of the "waves" but if you touch in a low point , the model can flip onto its back . No damage done usually but out of our control . I think everyone should try them at some point and your chance of success is way better with a foam veneered wing . Flight performance is barely affected and you cant get a much more friendly warbird . Dont try to put the retract pack together yourself . Remember , Ive flown thousands of flights on this type of model and I know exactly the best compromise . Copying the practice of ARTFs is not the answer . (oleos etc and no shock absorbing coil spring ) .

Yes, its 6mm which fits my 3548 motor Richard. I know because the kit arrived safely today. Watched the Parcelforce van go by our bungalow this morning so thought not today and went out to fetch the dog food. When we got back there was a note on the doormat saying parcel at the local Post Office. So, picked it up and ready to go! Nigel

If it flies as well as it looks Ken its going to go well 😎 You can extend the motor wires whilst you await for the ESC arrival.

Hi Richard - mine arrived today!

HI Richard everything arrived ok 👍 andy

True on the different modes Frank, that trims may not duplicate. But the way I was shown as an instructor was that I would fly the Master, and take off, and be satisfied with the trim. On the Slave, other mode, a competent flyer would take the sticks and I would switch them into the model, that they then set the trims correctly on the Slave.

I was planning to finish mine next week but it hasn't arrived yet.

I just bought a couple of the rolls from Hobbycraft this afternoon - the stuff that Ron was using in the vlog build of the FW190.

Hello from New Zealand, Here's the start of the Nieuport 17 I am working on. For diesel and 2 channel RC. A always like to start with the fuselage - as you can see some of the front formers cut out and playing around with the Mills .75 - I have rotated the motor about 20 degrees so the compression screw doesn't get in the way of the Vickers gun and will make a short extension for the needle valve. With a decent soldering iron and I have made up the music wire landing gear and center struts which I will bulk up with some balsa. I have attached a photo of the original which I plan to base my one on - "Dedette III" Escadrille N15, photo was taken June 1916. I make up and print my own decals on my ink jet printer - lucky all the markings are black! Hope to update in the next few days. Cheers.

Sorry jon, I have now gone beyond reading your postings. So don't bother quoting me.

I dunno seems to be to me. But thats fine as i can respond in kind. There are people who know a great deal about engines and the way they operate. That's fine and you will note i do not tend to disagree with them as they make informed comment on such matters. You however are not one of those people and so we disagree a great deal as most of what you say is flat out wrong and you refuse to accept that i know more about it than you do. Your posts show a clear lack of knowledge when it comes to the operation of these engines and you create flawed conclusions from this lack of knowledge. Your comments some time ago stating you could hear the engine seizing were a prime example. You said you heard it go so landed quickly to add castor to your fuel and solve the problem. As i commented at the time this was a complete load of nonsense as an engine seizure is done and dusted in fractions of a second with no way to stop it, let alone land and reverse the effects. Clearly you do not understand what actually happens when an engine seizes, and what you heard/saw was likely something completely different. In your post you talk about running a model shop, which is great but does nothing to qualify you as an engineer. You say synthetic oil destroyed your bearings, im sorry but it just didnt. If you used an appropriate oil for the job, they would have been fine from a wear point of view. If they rusted out, that has nothing to do with the oil anyway. As for the rest, having the guys from model technics as friends of your brother is also not enough to qualify you as a chemist. Anyone can mix liquids in a jar, but which liquids and why is a whole other game. This is why i worked with the guys at model technics when we did the first laser fuels as i am not a chemist, but John was so i was happy to accept his advice on the matter. And great, the factory was next door. I live near a road but know nothing about how to build one. Competition flying...yea ok, how does that have anything to do with engine design? Lewis Hamilton is a great F1 driver but he's not qualified to design the car. Pylon fuel i believe is standardised world wide, and the fact that its still 20% castor tells me that the regs have not been updated with the times because, again, event organisers and rule makers are not engineers. Also, give the niche nature of the event its not really relevant anyway. SO whats left? gummed up bearings are finished and not protected. You can never get all of the polymerised oil out so you need to bin them and go again. Laser valve springs are not a weakness and never have been. They fail usually due to rust causing micro pitting and then fatigue cracks form over time. This is not helped by modellers draining the oil from the rocker cover because they didnt know there was an oilway designed into the engine causing oil to be pumped into the rocker cover. They didnt know enough about what they had in front of them so came to the wrong conclusions. The only exception to this spring thing was a dodgy batch back in 1998, and they broke all the time. In any event, i have only ever broken 2 laser valve springs, both on 2nd hand engines from the late 90's. I have also broken 2 on an OS91, 1 on an Enya 155, and i think one on something else but i cannot remember what. In any case, its no worse on a laser than on anything else. So im sorry Paul, you just dont know what you are talking about when it comes to model engines and their operation so cannot come to accurate conclusions when faced with problems. No doubt there will be outrage from some quarters regarding this post, and thats fine as my comments are still perfectly valid even if people dislike them, or me. To be clear, my problem is not that someone does not have the level of expertise and training i do in this subject, my issue is when that person continues to assert that they know best when they clearly dont. Unfortunately this attitude is very common in modellers and its one reason i am extremely glad i am no longer in the industry. To this and the rest of your post, correct for the most part. Although most synthetic fuels have corrosion inhibitors in them they are useless if the engine is left with methanol in it. No oil will help you in that instance and i have seen many a castor run engine that was rusty as an old nail. Equally i have seen synthetic fuelled engines gleam like a jewel despite many years of inactivity and no additional after run protection. Generally though you are quite correct and i have heard many times that 'my mates merco was killed by synthetic oil back in 1983 and ill never use it again'. As you mention, there is oil, and oil. Not all are equal.

Lovely sunny, warm, tad breezy day on East Coast of Gods Own County...... Had an hour with these 2. Now it's time for some noise with the petrol Wotty. After a coffee. I am billy no mates as my most regular flying chum is fishing.... Summer must be on the way as we now have Swifts, Swallows and Lapwings.

It's very rare, but sometimes learning to fly an R/C aeroplane is simply beyond a particular individuals ability no matter what one does to help them. I know of one older chap in my club who's been 'learning' for over ten years and simply doesn't get it - he's always at least two or three seconds behind the model on a good day, and on an off day.....well the model might as well be free flight. Not just a matter of age in this case, he's been into models and crashing them for decades.

Here you go Chris

Greetings Steve.. I always spread the wheels as far apart as possible on all my models.it helps with spill on landing. 420mm from inside to inside. The wheels are 90 mm printed and find they are so easy to see and do help with the angle of attack. I think you could see in the video how easy the blades spun up whilst the model was stationary. Sorry that I was unable to post the video on this site. Chris...

Thanks for the support! Ok, a few more hours in the garage today. Today was far more fathoming out how to hold the main casting than machining it. This lathe is small so has small features. It came to me with a reasonable 'home made' face plate which is the chosen mthod of holding the casting. However, the 3" angle plate I now have is HUGE and weighs a ton, I would never balance it out for cutting, so used a nice piece of extruded alum alloy to be the substitute for the angle plate. This all worked out great and with the instructions to guide me managed to get the cylinder liner bore all done and re-jig the same parts to align the exhaust stub pipe ready for machining tomorrow. Hope these pics will speak a 1000 words: